Best filament for durability as bushings

[petersglassshop]

You may want to lower your temp.. I use Esun and MakerGrear abs and always print at 235 with very few issues. Do a Pid calibration on your hotend if you have never done one
On the terminal with the hot end cold and off send M303 wait till done. wire down the output as the printer may disconnect do to time out during the test as it takes a few minutes. Reconnect if need be and Enter the values last reported which you wrote down like below (your numbers will be different) Then send a 500 to save.

When I switch nozzles I switch hot ends. I have run Pid cal on each hot end and saved the values in a spread sheet. When I change a nozzle size and hotend set my starting height and set the Pid for the particular hotend I have installed

.25 M301 P17.49 I1.16 D65.95
.35 M301 P19.97 I1.39 D71.56
0.5 M301 P18.64 I1.24 D71.83

Thanks for the suggestions...no, never done calibrations for the hotend before.

number of options, basically most things are better than bog-standard abs.

It does depend how much you are prepared to pay for your filament.

Also - have you tried magigoo on your print bed ?
Easily the best and longest lasting 3rd party printing adhesive I know of.

Filament wise, one of the best things on the market is ninjatek's Armadillo. It's a rigid polyurethane, stronger, lighter, more durable and better temperature stats than abs - and really easy to print. Well I used some, mistaking it for pla - and it printed perfectly.

......

OR - and it's a pretty significant 'OR'
you could make your own :-) https://hackaday.io/project/114738-a...ite-3d-printer
Now that's interesting, he's using kapton tape to coat the belt. I'd be inclined to coat the kapton with magigoo anyway. Never had much luck with kapton.

Given that you can make one for - probably - a few hundred dollars, certainly well under a thousand - versus $11,000 to buy one.
Sounds like you should have all the tools necessary in your factory, as well as engineers to make the parts.
Got to be worth a try, right :-)

Make a belt machine, use abs fusion - job's a good one !
The materials section of the 3d printing market has pretty much outstripped everything else in terms of new materials and properties - but most people still use bog standard pla, abs and pet-g. And they are cheap in comparison to some of the newer materials. But if it's a commercial application, definitely worth investing in better materials.
I do like to try as many different materials as possible.
I'm going to have another go with that fusion, just for the hell of it. hot today so all doors and window in my workshop are open :-)

Actually, price is a big concern...this is a 3rd world country, and we do have to watch our costs quite a bit. We currently buy from "Flythinking" in China for about $7 USD per Kg. We order several hundred Kg per order...so $40/Kg does not sound very inciting. Same with the majigoo, I think we would easily be spending quite a bit on it....but maybe we'll order a stick to at least see the difference. Concerning building our own, no we don't have any engineers here, I'm the tech guy at the business and I studied industrial design and EET a bit, but didn't finish either degree. When it comes to 3D printing, I'm a novice tinkerer and a DIY noob. I think I could figure it out and build something successfully, but I imagine it would take me hundreds of hours (that I don't have) as opposed to only tens for someone with experience.

here's the pics of the part I got from blackbelt last year.
This is how it came off the belt. No supports were used and it hasn't had any post processing.
They were also printing pretty quick, so this is a 'rough' print.

The above pic (last) is the orientation it was printed at. That long horizontal section was printed without support.

Your attachments are broken...

Would like it hotter but with the electronics board inside the enclosure the manufacture suggest keeping it under 110F (43.3333C)

Before adding the thermostat it had gone as high as 112F (44.444C) and suffered no issue other than the PLA spool support drooping, but that has been replaced with ABS. And yes there is some shrinkage causing the very tips of the corners to lift a bit.

Adding a 1.5-2mm filet around the edge of the face that is on the bed, along with a brim that is just about attached .04mm offset eliminates most of the lift.

The parts I am making are small and mostly 100% infill, so solid abs, as they are mechanical in nature.

As I have mentioned in another thread, the ABS I am using is really nice stuff, $40US a Kilo vs the cheap Esun but there is never an issue with thinness variation.

We have been planning to build an enclosure, so I th9ink this will be the next thing I pursue....thanks again for the suggestions.