Best filament for durability as bushings

[airscapes]

From what i recall the OP never printed any calibration models to set starting Z offset properly which could be the only thing wrong as it needs to be changed per layer height and it can be functional differences between 70C bed and a 110C bed. Adding the thick layer of PIE to a bed that is not close enough to start would help and would help more than adding a paint on liquid.

[petersglassshop]

so you're making proper end usage parts, 80 at a go !
I am impressed :-)

The pei 'stick when hot but not when cold' does work well.
Pretty sure printbite is a type of pei. The sheet on my delta has been going for nearly 3 years.
I do find you need to up the bed temp a little. So my standard pla bed temp is 65c - and I get no issues at that. The normal 50c for pla, doesn't work as well.
It's interesting that the pei does better than the magigoo (I did 'acquire' a half litre bottle of some kind of print glue at tct, so I'm set for life lol)
I found that fresh magigoo will stick even the most detailed prints.
Mind you I'm printing in a cold garage with about 50% humidity, so ambient conditions could make all the difference. You're somewhere tropical, right ?

Thanks CA...Yes, this is tropical Belize (Central America...so we are usually printing at 90-100F with 60-95% humidity, definitely not ideal conditions. We have an AC room, and have been conducting testing with one machine in the room and the other outside the room. We keep both printers running 50-70 hours per week if possible...we have printed more than two million individual parts since we purchased our first printer. We primarily use the printers for small-scale mass production of end usage parts...but we have also designed and printed more than 100 unique models for the purpose of rapid prototyping for R&D efforts. I have attached our printer menu...these jobs are all saved on the SD cards of each printer so we can print independent from a PC.

From what i recall the OP never printed any calibration models to set starting Z offset properly which could be the only thing wrong as it needs to be changed per layer height and it can be functional differences between 70C bed and a 110C bed. Adding the thick layer of PIE to a bed that is not close enough to start would help and would help more than adding a paint on liquid.

AS, while we have not used "calibration models"...that is not to say that we have not set & reset Z-offest. We play with it regularly and are well aware of its effect on the print adherence & quality. We use the Makergear bed leveling wizard, or the wizard in the "Simply 3D" software to re-calibrate occasionally, and we use an automotive feeler gauge to ensure our hot end is approx 0.30mm from the build surface (remember, we are using 0.5mm nozzles).

When we applied the PEI sheets, they are much thicker than 0.3mm...so Z offset adjustment was forced.