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  1. #11
    Hey, thanks! I will put my filament into a container with some silica gel.

  2. #12
    Technologist TommyDee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Quote Originally Posted by lukuky64 View Post
    I'm not sure what you mean?

    ... the image is the message that the link takes me to.

  3. #13
    Sorry there must have been an issue, maybe the file was too large. Here's a link: this should work.

  4. #14
    I think the issue has something to do with Z wobble, how could I fix this on my Da Vinci printer?

  5. #15
    Staff Engineer Roberts_Clif's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Washington State, USA
    Add Roberts_Clif on Thingiverse
    Your images display perfectly.
    Here is a copy of one.


    As for the lines starting up about 1/3 of the model being printed this could be a multitude of problems.
    This could happen because of the lead-screws being out of alignment, it could be because the linear rods are too loose for the bearings or the bearing could need repacked.

    Great Bearing Cleaning video

  6. #16
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    one other reason for the lines could well be a temperature gradient in the printer itself.

    The reason abs isn't well suited for 3d printing is because it has built in shrinkage - this is to allow easy removal from injection moulds - which is what it was developed for..
    So as each layer cools, it shrinks, the hotter the model stays the less the individual layers shrink.
    The shrinkage can causes layer lines and also is what causes the really crappy layer adhesion.

    Obviously the layers nearer the printbed are being heated by the bed itself, the layers further up are warmed ONLY by the internal temperature of the printer itself. And unless you have a thermostatically controlled temperature in your print area, it's always going to be cooler the further away from the print bed you get.

    I also have a shelf full of abs - at some point I'll either give it away (I have tried, nobody wanted it) or dump it.
    For me it's purely down to the smell and fumes.
    Even on an open frame printer, if you print slowly and hot, you can get decent prints. They will not be as strong as prints with a material that has a lower thermal expansion, but they are useable.

    But I have a relatively small crowded workshop and having it stink like a chemical factory is a bad idea.

    Pla either doesn't smell or smells like maple syrup :-)

  7. #17
    In defense of ABS, it works really well in an enclosure that is kept at 100F while printing and a bed at 110C. I have been using it a LOT for functional parts I design. The higher quality ABS works best, MakerGear sells a USA made rebranded product that is really excellent but $39 a roll plus shipping. The Esun stuff is ok, but not as consistent in diameter.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #18
    Last night I performed the PID autotune on the nozzle, not sure if it made any difference but I wiggled the Z bed around a bit and the layer issue has seemed to minimise a bit. But maybe it had something to do with the model. The 3DBenchy bridging section failed near the top so I increased the travel speed to 95mm/s and did a bridge model test. But I am impressed the printer is now able to create the front hull without any drooping.

    Also, if you are giving away ABS filament... I will gladly be willing to help you out . I am located in Australia though, so i'm not sure how much shipping will cost me.

  9. #19
    Oh I thought Esun made high quality filament, when I purchase some PLA or PLA+ I will try a different brand, Thanks!

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by lukuky64 View Post
    Oh I thought Esun made high quality filament, when I purchase some PLA or PLA+ I will try a different brand, Thanks!
    Esun is fine, just not always as consistent in diameter. I use Esun all the time PLA + PETG and ABS.. just saying there is higher quality and it does make a difference.

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