Your prints time per layer is needs to add a 'cooling period' between layers. You may also be running a little hot although 230C for ABS seems low. Minimum layer times are very useful for small parts. Having the hotend move out of the way and pausing for say 5 seconds per layer will help. I use to run 'cooling towers' which equates to priming towers to mimic that action when the printer doesn't do it for me (the slicer, of course).

Painter's tape has one flaw... the adhesive. Although your ABS part will stick like great guns to the tape, the adhesive will let go on the bed.

I now run a CubePro that has a heated enclosure and their primary material is ABS. The slicer is really good about providing cooling breaks as well as part fan management. The chamber is heated with a heater pointed right at the glass bed for some level of bed heating (nothing like 100C!). The original means to hold parts down was a joke! Maybe why these printers are now obsolete.
However, bring in LokBuild (definitely a fan!) and 3D Systems proprietary glue and you have a stick that rivals everything but an ABS slurry. I don't know what 3DS' glue formulation is but it holds to ABS like nobody's business. It works well on Lokbuild not because it is needed but because it makes it 3x more effective particularly on parts that like to curl at the edges. Furthermore, the original OEM intent is to wash the glue off and re-apply. Part removal would take up large pieces of the glue and remain with the part which you would then wash off. Not so with Lokbuild. The glue has a preference to stay with the build surface. No washing or wasting. Apply a bit of water to soften the glue and redistribute (recharge) the glue and let dry. I've had a small bottle of glue last over a year of heavy printing on my smaller machines. There really are some little known tricks that really enhances the ability to print with these tricky materials.

ABS Fossilz



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And I do appreciate Aardvark's ABS concerns. PETG is a wonderful alternative to ABS for many applications. Certainly something I will consider switching to once I've run through the 10Kg or so of ABS that now have in stock.

Anyway, the primary issue I see in your print is the heat-loading of the part itself. for the build plate 1st layer... consider a brim to help the corners stay flush.