How funny. I was looking for some more LokBuild for a magnetic plate conversion.

You're in luck, You can get a good deal on the right size LokBuild shipped out of England at 332x340 with very reasonable shipping. Almost big enough for 4 of my plates.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LokBuild-3D...2/264137360405

CubePro, the top of the Cubify series, also has a heated bed. They still use this same glue.

Not sure what your damage level is of your build plate. Also not what your 1st layers looks like when printed.
Reducing gap to force sticking to the build plate is not the proper method. You should have a final gap of approximately your tips aperture size.
Let me clarify; We set our gap to be zero (0) and let the machine know where zero is. The slicer will add to zero by the first layer offset.
In order to protect the build surface on my machines, the procedure will make sure I have a 0.22 gap all over the build plate, and that is zero.
That means I start with a 0.22 gap if I set the slicer to 0.0 for 1st layer offset. But that is not the case, on top of the 0.22mm mechanical gap, I also have a 0.25 slicer first layer gap.
That means my initial gap when printing is actually 0.48mm which is very close to my nozzle aperture size.
Other systems are set up in different ways, point here is to understand fully what the initial gap and slicer gap could mean depending on how the machine handles it.

Trying to stuff the plastic in the build plate simply means you put significant restriction on filament flow. This is also hard on the filament drive motor... and the filament will likely skip an jump meaning less filament ends up being delivered.

Have a look at this print... this is the build plate side. I ran this with an initial print gap of 0.55. LokBuild took it and helds it. And that is because this PLA just worked excellently and the surface was in very good condition.

nearperfect.jpg

Obviously, for larger areas, build plate flatness is also important.