Flash Forge Adventurer 3

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Thread: Wobbly print

  1. #11
    Did another print and with that the problem appeared a bit higher than with previous print so it's not always on the same height. The wall layers when the problems appear is not smooth and flat but a bit rugged like the filament is sticking to the nozzle or something.

    Someone else said I might have a problem with my Z-axis and the z-rod. Some kind of common problem with the ender 3. the fit in the motor and in the carriage is not always totally aligned making the travel a bit more heavy than it should. Saw a youtube video where he was able to push the whole z bar down quite easily, I have to turn the motor to lower it.

  2. #12
    Engineer Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    Jun 2017
    Washington State, USA
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    Could it be that the filament is getting tangled.

    Select a small model, slice and get a measurement of the amount of filament cut to length + a little extra.
    Loop the filament over the Spool holder and Print.

    I have had filament rolls that were a tangled mess. when I examined filament it was not tangled.
    Only by recording did I determine that the Filament was indeed tangling.

  3. #13
    Tried printing the end cap of the filament holder with just a cut meter of filament. It was ok but not perfect.I also made the worst print yet, with a spider web like walls after. Big holes and just failure. I aborted that print. First cm of layers went ok then it just went crap. So problem didn?t start at same place as yesterday but was similiar but worse. This was with the filament in it?s holder and just before the better print I mentioned above. The more I search the more possible problems I find. I just don?t where to look. Z-axis motor need a spacer? Clogging in the nozzle? Filament not unvinding properly?
    Last edited by skvalp; 01-13-2019 at 12:37 PM.

  4. #14
    This is 3D printing. I chased a similar issue in a canned system only to learn that the metalic ABS filaments I've been using slowly degrade my nozzles by leaching something around the Teflon tubing near the hotend. A thorough cleaning and all works wonders again. Had I not known where to look, it would have driven me insane!

  5. #15
    I'm new to this and I do not know where to look. All the joy I felt about this is slowly disappearing by having bad and miserable prints only and nothing I do fixes it.

    Worst print

    the print afterwards that was ok but not perfect

  6. #16
    I can see the issues even in the small print. Why are images so darn small on this forum? It is very hard to see any level of detail in the pictures.

    Best thing to know is your zero point. A goto place that you know will work every time.
    The same filament, profile, and part. Use a benign filament and a provided profile and maybe a provided test print from the manufacturer. This has to always come out the same way. If not, then you know something has changed with your machine. This is where you go before you continue to add new bruises to your skull.

    Is this a special filament? Are you using retraction and/or z-hop? Are you using a recommended or provided profile?

    To get to the bottom of the problem, you will need to apply the scientific method. You can do this on your own or with guidance from the forum but it is one of those open book processes that can zero in on issues although it could really go far down the rabbit hole. We're had frustrating temperature errors turn out to be marginal power supplies.

    You're obviously not feeding and melting filament at an expected and known rate.
    You are getting filament driver mech. clicking which is indicative of restriction and/or lack of heating.
    1. To check restriction: Take the failed print's filament that is currently in the bowden tube... Remove the bowden tube from the machine; push the already tractor'd filament you just salvaged and push it through the bowden tube. Does it have restriction or does it glide through easily? You want the ladder! If not, here's your problem. I have more on this if it turns out to be restrictive enough to cause concern. During a print, this restriction is even greater due to thermal expansion issues.

  7. #17
    Started to pick stuff apart tonight, didn't think it was a clogging problem in the nozzle. Was flowing fine when I pushed it and when I retrieved it it looked as I think it should. However when I disconnected the filament guidance tube it had some damage in the back end and some material sticking out. Cut a piece off and put it back, printed the same end cap as before and it came out great. Hoping this was the problem and that it's now fixed.

    Big thanks for your time helping me, appreciate it a lot!

  8. #18
    Definitely looking a bit better. Yee'ol burr on the bowden tube thang! Good luck!

  9. #19
    Did a couple of prints with the filament cut to about the length the print would use and not being distributed from the spool. Layer thickness 0.16 mm and print speed lowered to 40 mm/s. Everything looked great then I got cocky and raised the speed to 60 mm/s, thicker layer 0.3 mm and put the filament spool back up. Then the print became a bit wobbly again. Maybe the problem with the filament guidance tube wasn't the only one.

  10. #20
    How smoothly does the spool unwind? Is it disturbing the framework?

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