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Thread: "Cold spot" on my heated bed?
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06-18-2014, 09:07 AM #1
OME, I think your new approach will work better but if you can get things to stick without the raft your life will be easier. Rafts are hard to remove cleanly.
I don't know if you have 3d modeling capabilities but you might try something I've been doing. I put long 2.5mm thick tabs on corners. It's holding my parts down and keeping them from warping. I use borosilicate glass with 3 coats of Aquanet hairspray. Spray the Aquanet let it dry and repeat twice more for a thick coat. Pet and ABS are sticking very well to it. I posted last night in this thread http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...e-to-ABS/page8 which shows the tabs on a part. They are easier to cut away than a raft and don't waste much material.
We have the same printer, if I'm not mistaken, so I think that your new process of using your #1 and #2 above will begin to give you better results. Adding tabs like I have done might be helpful too.
I also agree with 'printbus', I'm dubious about the aluminum foil. I'd remove that. Finally, if you do decide to pick up a laser thermometer, you can measure the glass to see what "dialed in" temperature actually reaches the glass. Mine is about 2 degrees C different. So if I want a bed of 120C I dial in 122C.Bambu P1S/AMS
NVision4D http://nvision4d.com
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