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  1. #1
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
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    when levelling the bed you need a sheet of paper to just slide between the nozzle and the bed - with a little resistance.
    I prefer to use 90gsm paper.
    You can then fine tune - depending on your print surface - from the slicer.
    Do each corner and the middle of the bed - then do the four points midway between the level screws.
    Though if the corners and center are the same - the rest should be as well.

    For this lameda stuff, I've actually got an extra 0.2mm z height added before printing. Pla sticks to it like glue.
    If you have even the slightest amount of 'smoosh' it's a real bastard to remove.

    And no - the screens are not plug and play :-(
    So there's probably nothing wrong with my original one lol

    I think you have to set the screen type in the firmware, it's starting to ring vague bells from when I had a quick furtle with the touchscreen for the mks sbase board..

    So figuring out how to do that is my next job :-)

    Whole bunch iof things I'd like to be able to do with the control panel.
    Not least of which would be loading and un loading filament. What kind of 3d printer firmware doesn't even give you that option ?
    Marlin 1.0 apparently.

    Also the current firmware prints things smaller than they should be - found this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2284225/files
    Mine has the atmega 2560 chip (2650 somthing like that) - so if you play with the above - check the chip on your board first.

    I blame the huge plastic drive cogs.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 09-30-2018 at 12:16 PM.

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