MakerFarm 8" i3v Prusa build by Printbus

[printbus]

Well, that's info worth knowing. Thank you. I didn't know they changed the motor offering, though one can see why if they were having heat issues. I'll find out if the Z-endstop is built similar to yours on the model I select. Noted the addition of a screw adjustable endstop as a mentioned solution, seems like an easy way to avoid that hassle. I will look at the kysans again with what comes with my model and likely scratch them off the list. Like most people here, I have some fabrication/mechanics/electronics/engineering background, I was an electronics tech in the Navy, go to school for Mechanical Engineering, and work as a mechanic. The 3d print/cad stuff is a hobby currently, so budget is mediocre. I was considering a few nice models 2-3x the cost of this, fully assembled/fully enclosed, but the experience of these models has me intrigued, and I don't see the others offering better specs, better support, more/cheaper filament, etc.

With a budget constraint, I'd definitely hold off on the Kysans. The concern on the Z endstop bracket should only be on the 8-inch kits. MakerFarm migrated to an improved Z-endstop bracket that uses a screw adjustment for the 12-inch printers, and I've heard they're now shipping the 10-inch printer with that improved bracket as well.

[RobH2]

I'm working on a modification for the VSlot version but don't own that printer. I need to know a measurement and if one of you get a chance I'd like to know the head diameter of the 1) round head hex on the left. And 2) the diameter of the hex nut (the long dimension, not the short one) and the diameter of the flat washer. Also, I'd like to know how far each sticks out off of the surface.

[printbus]

I'm working on a modification for the VSlot version but don't own that printer. I need to know a measurement and if one of you get a chance I'd like to know the head diameter of the 1) round head hex on the left. And 2) the diameter of the hex nut (the long dimension, not the short one) and the diameter of the flat washer. Also, I'd like to know how far each sticks out off of the surface.

Dimensions for standard M5 hardware would apply. The round hex head are called button head; the nut is a nylon locknut. The washer is a fender washer that I added on my own. I would recommend looking up specifications for M5 hardware, but I measure as follows (based on sample of one piece only):

Button head: 9.23mm diameter, 2.75mm head height
Nyloc nut: 7.88mm flat-to-flat, 8.75mm diagonal point-to-point, 4.78mm height
Fender washer: 14.72mm diameter, 1.09mm thickness

[beerdart]

McMaster provides 2d and 3d drawings of almost all there fasteners.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#94500a231/=vrolwa

[RobH2]

Thanks guys. I really appreciate it.

Yes, McMaster is good for that but if you don't know what size they are to start with those tables don't help much. I was going to try to interpolate the sizes because I know how thick the wood is. But, I thought it might be faster to ask one of you guys and see if anyone minded measuring for me. Thanks a lot for the fast measurements. Exactly what I need...

[aaaa]

Hey I just wanted to mention the i3v printers are being shipped with updated micro adjustable z endstops now. The build guides have been updated as well to reflect it.

[printbus]

Hey I just wanted to mention the i3v printers are being shipped with updated micro adjustable z endstops now. The build guides have been updated as well to reflect it.

That's good news. The 8-inch printer must have been the last to get the update. There's at least one person who built his i3v-8 within the last couple of weeks and it still had the original style.

[aaaa]

That's good news. The 8-inch printer must have been the last to get the update. There's at least one person who built his i3v-8 within the last couple of weeks and it still had the original style.

My 8" was shipped in late November early December and it had the updated endstop/X-idler. My frame doesn't have all the fancy writing on it though. Would have been great of Colin to update the build guide before I sliced my Z-endstop bracket!!!! Oh well.

[Cameron]

This looks very interesting. I am going to take a look at how this could work with my current setup. (wanting to add a PLA cooling fan as well so will see how that can integrate with my plans for that.)

Thanks!

[printbus]

This looks very interesting. I am going to take a look at how this could work with my current setup. (wanting to add a PLA cooling fan as well so will see how that can integrate with my plans for that.)

Like the stock 40mm fan, this won't work with the clough42 print cooler system, if that's what you're thinking of using. With the stock fan, you couldn't really even try to use the clough42 cooler since the cooler would block the top of the hot end fan. That's not a negative for the clough42 cooler - it wasn't intended to be used with the stock hot end fan. With this hot end shroud and fan, the clough42 print cooler could at least be adapted to mount on top of the flat plate for this shroud. As a minimum, you'd have to modify the mount for the clough42 cooler so that the hinge joint is farther away from the extruder base. It may also be desirable to extend the print cooling shroud the same amount to maintain the same distance from the nozzle.

In my case, I didn't track down one of the fans clough42 recommended for use with his print cooling shroud, and found the backpressure from the narrow outlet shroud resulted in little cooling airflow with the fans I had on hand. I then migrated to the side-mounted blower, which IMO is a more effective and also lighter approach to a print cooler. I have a few other ideas related to the print cooler that I haven't gotten around to yet.