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  1. #11
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
    3d scanning is in it's infancy.
    It's not good with holes or voids in objects and the cheapest desktop model that's worth having is over $1000. The einscan:
    The 'affordable' (their term, not mine :-) industrial units start at around the $10-20,000 mark.

    By the time you scanned a part and spent a couple days tidying up the point cloud and adding all the details the scanner missed, you'll probably find that it's easier to do it yourself.

    One of the things that keeps cropping up from our american members is how hot it gets in your cars. Not an issue in the uk.
    So you'll need to be using pet-g, which is a good mechanical plastic with a higher softening point than abs or pla.

    There are also some pla's around that you cook after printing, they shrink slightly, but get stronger and a lot more heat resistant. Up past the 100c mark, apparently.

    I've made and replaced plenty of household items, and can't see any issues with plastic car parts - but probably best to avoid engine parts.

    So yes it's doable, but you will need to do most of it yourself :-)

  2. #12
    Engineer ralphzoontjens's Avatar
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    Nov 2013
    Tilburg, the Netherlands
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    For small parts like you mention, 3D printing can be a good solution.
    I heard it has some issues (almost all printers do), but the da Vinci 1.0 AiO has an integrated 3D scanner and fair build volume and price tag so looks like a good one to begin with.

    Think of a layered part more like wood than plastic, structurally. It can break across the seams. So for structural parts carrying heavy loads you need additional solutions like conjoining parts with different layer orientations or epoxy reinforcement. For other parts, ABS is structurally good but not so good against fuels and UV radiation. You can have nylon parts produced through SLS processes at 3rd party services like Shapeways. It allows sizes over 2' with high accuracy and strong parts but the prices will be very steep and nylon is far from great for outdoor use. A good option will be printing in PET because it is resistant against most chemicals and weathering.

    You can also think of printing larger parts for molds, in many sections. Then they will be usable for hand layup of exterior parts. Silicone casting in simple 3D printed molds works great as well. Always consider there is some manual labor involved - cleaning the print, filing, smoothening. So if you have a lot of extra time or have parts that need to be replaced in batches, 3D printing will be a solution.

  3. #13
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
    The best aio (all in one) around is the zeus.

    Cost a fair bit more than the xyz, but by all accounts you get much better results as well.

    It's about as close as you can currently get to a 3d photocopier.

  4. #14
    Thanks again for the help all. Lots to learn here. Some of the replies make me want to shy away, while others clearly point out that a 3D printer would save me a lot of money. Some of these interior parts can reach ridiculous prices. If I even printed 10 interior parts in a year, the printer would be paid for and after that, its all money in the bank. So hmm... decisions. My only concern is that even a "larger" desktop printer, only prints parts up to 8" or 20cm.

    As one member posted above. That would print me a lot of parts, but I'd also run into plenty of times where it wouldn't be big enough. For me to set a good minimum... I'd have to say that I'd need to be able to print up to 12 inches or 30.5 cm. 1 meter would be ideal lol. But a printer that would print nearly everything I'd need would probably be able to print parts that were up to 22". Just to be on the safe side.

    And something tells me that the bigger you get, the more expensive the printer.

  5. #15
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Not necessarily.

    Just built myself a delta from a kit.
    The kits are $199 - print volume is 8 inches by 12.
    Now I wouldn't ordinarily recommend it to a first timer. But sounds like you're used to making stuff and I've covered all the niggles in my build thread.
    So you can get the few extra bits beforehand.

    Still only 8 by 12.
    However - all it needs to extend the build height are longer belts - pretty cheap and longer vertical struts, also pretty cheap. Longer filament feed tube and some wire to patch longer wires on the end stops and hot end wires.

    he3d do a kit that's 280mm by 600 for another $300 bucks.
    I figure I can extend mine to 200 x 600 for about another $80
    Theoretically there is no actual limit to the height you could extend it to.
    You just need long enough belts, enough belt tensioners (dirt cheap) and longer wires for the end stops, extruder and hot end.
    However as you are dealing with a bowden setup (filament is pushed through a long tube) I'd personally probably only go as far as the 600mm build height.

    That said, you can use a fl3xidrive which puts a super lightweight direct-drive extruder directly on top of the extruder and eliminates the filament tube issue.

    The kit from he3d is $559 for 280mm x 600 (well 570 with the hotbed - which I would recommend).

    Beat that :-)

    Oh yeah - under no circumstances feel tempted to get the ciclops scanner. Absolute junk, does not work, will not scan anything, ever.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 06-07-2017 at 03:13 PM.

  6. #16
    Thanks for the help once again. Now I'd like to ask you what is "hard" for a 3d printer to print. Would those larger printers you linked, be able to print this?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    It would be too hard to create a gauge bezel for a car if you don't have the part or drawings of the part. It looks like you need a big 3D printer to print that part which requires supports.

  8. #18
    Student 3DPLUS's Avatar
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    Jun 2017
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    The answer is YES and NO
    - you can partialy print every single parts
    - You can create your unique part by 3dprinting
    - the higher cost!
    - take time to "slice" sanding paper, glue...
    - The results is very easy to broken, not smooth like molding plastic part.
    I also did some stuff like CAR MODEL, SHIP, even AIRPLANE PARTS ( used in reality!) at my SHOP IN 3D:

  9. #19
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
    Quote Originally Posted by bennylava View Post
    Thanks for the help once again. Now I'd like to ask you what is "hard" for a 3d printer to print. Would those larger printers you linked, be able to print this?
    Yep no problem, you'll need to use supports. But stuff like is ideal.
    Bit of sanding and some black gloss paint. and it'll look better than the original.

    On the other hadn, it'd be a pig to design, those organic style curves can be tricky little buggers to get just right.

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