Heaven help me - I've just bought a delta kit :-)

[curious aardvark]

cheapest one off ebay and and one that was about standard cost.
they both look exactly like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3D-Printer....c100506.m3226

We figure the BB's heatpad will draw around 27amps :-)
Well I say 'we' - My mate dave, who is an electrician, worked it out and went: 'bloody hell that's going to pull 27 amps !'
At which point I started to think running it through the motherboard probably wasn't that great an idea and recalled autowhiz's posts about ssr's (really mosfets) :-)

[curious aardvark]

The mks sbase arrived a short while ago. Looks good. Huge (relatively speaking) heatsinks already in place on the stepper drivers, that's pretty unusual in itself. Standard lcd screen - well it was about £3 so why not.
So need to find the info page for that now.

Got the wheel spacing and test carriages sorted last night. The little white wheels are smooth as you like.
I'm still surprised when i change a measurement by 0.05 of a mm and it makes a noticeable difference :-)
I can actually just press fit the wheels and require a hammer to remove them.
Adjust the diameter down by 0.05mm and they're an easy fit that would need screwing tight.

I'll try both methods, the screw has really thin walled cylinders until the screw is inserted. So we'll see.
Next up belt gripper, decide how wide to make the ball attachments which will determine the relative size of the effector - which is the next job. Still no clue how to fit this j6 round necked extruder.
But with test carriages sliding up and down the strut like oiled silk - it just feels like a major step forward :-)

Just downloaded the tevo little monster firmware, hee hee :-)

[curious aardvark]

Well damn that works :-)

wheelsetup_640x480.jpg

Self taps right down to the base of the column, locks the wheel in place, super tight :-)
Going to try a 4 way now :-)

And that's all you need. Correctly spaced wheel holders and a 3x16mm bolt.
No washers, eccentric nuts, spacers - it ain't necessary :-)
Made the holes 3.25mm - gives a perfect fit for a 3mm bolt. Really tight, but with room for the thread to cut without breaking the plastic. I'm quite pleased with myself :-)

You get a hard plastic shell with a solid metal core and 7mm solid column for the first couple of mm to the base plate. That's strong.

If you ever need to remove the carriage, just remove the bolts from one side and pop the wheels off. Shafts will be attached magnetically, so just pop off.

Right walk dogs while the 4 way prints.

[mjf55]

Its looking good. Little Monster.... Nice I like that machine. MKS Sbase board. You need the 32 bits for BB?

[curious aardvark]

According to autowhiz, yes :-)
Plus you can't run smoothieware without it and that does seem to be the way to go for delta's.

Here's the 4 wheel test rig. I did think about maybe wimping out and using the standard 3 wheel setup. But this is absolutely rock solid, no movement in any direction but sliding. You can put a lot of vertical pressure on the flat side of the carriage as well, would work really well for the bed on an I3.
He3d definitely got this right. 4 wheels is significantly more stable and solid than 3.

4wheelstest_473x480.jpg

4wheelstest2_310x480.jpg

[mjf55]

yeah, I agree with the 4 wheels. That was one of the reasons I picked HE3D over other delta's ( Not to mention yours and #40fan's glowing comments and upgrades. )

[curious aardvark]

I'm beginning to hate stuff without manuals.

So the new board seems fine, talks to the computer to the extent I can access the card on the board through the computer.
Firmware seems to works and I can talk to it through repetier host.

But the fracking touch screen does not come on. The one thing I had absolutely no issues with on the board that i couldn't get firmware on.

There are two jumpers, I have tried both in both positions. No difference. I think one changes steps from 16 to 32. The other is labelled 3v3 and 5v and doesn't seem to make any difference whichever it is in.
AAAARRRGGGHHHHHH !!!!

I will try the cheapo lcd now.

Well that powers up - but doesn't display anything and through the little speaker it sounds like a ghost screaming.

Is it me or what ?

Oh yeah the cheapo lcd doesn't work in the other board either.
See if I can find any info. Autowhiz he just plugs the screen into the board and it works. I wish, lol
***

So I had a thought (it occasionally happens) maybe becasue the sbase is a bit bigger and has more oomph, the screen will only work when the boards is hooked up to 12v.
I was right. Fired up right away :-)
So that's good.

Also the smoothieware comes with a really good manual that explains what you measure and how to get the arm lengths and spacing settings correct.
With pictures no less !

So that's all good :-)

Cheapo lcd screen still just screams. Figure that's doa and write it off.
When i take alexa apart for the mosfet I'll try it on her. But pretty sure it's a goner.
Board works, that's what counts :-)

So I better get on and build the rest !

oh yeah heres' the two boards side by side (kinda)

23dpboards_445x600.jpg

[curious aardvark]

Ordered some 500mm carbon fibre shafts. Only need 400's but you can buy 1metre, 500mm 300mm or 200 mm. Got 10 so I can practice cutting them.
Think I've got a really height tpi belt for the bandsaw that I've never used - that should do the job.
They'll have inserts to hold the magnets, so I can make the length adjustable to a small degree anyway.
One issue I will have is measuring the length accurately.

The digital calipers only go to 150mm, my steel rule goes to 300. I need a something that both goes to 500mm and is accurate on tenths of a mm.

[curious aardvark]

shafts arrived.
Look good, got 10 so i can aford to breaka couple lol. Just need to work out how long.
I figure 400mm and adjust if necessary with the magnet holder.

[ir_fuel]

I apologise for not reading all 39 pages here (stopped at around 15 ), but could you tell me if this printer works with Octopi? Thanks!