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07-22-2017, 01:55 PM #1
how easy is the carbon fibre rod to cut to length ?
looks fairly cheap to buy. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-3k-Car...QAAOSwwE5WVTJU
And whats the equation to work out length needed (obviously minus length of end pieces).
Right go look for wheels.
best buy looks like around £1 per wheel includign bearing. Bolts extra.
The swivel to tighten thing is neat. But I dropped them down from the top anyway. so that's not actually necessary. 3mm bolt and printed insert/washer will work just as well.
So we'd be looking at 3 x 1.5(ish) metre struts
and 6 x ?Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-22-2017 at 02:12 PM.
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07-22-2017, 02:58 PM #2
nope.
Only 1 watt.
what's wrong with printed effectors ?
You're just trying to make stuf cost more :-)
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07-23-2017, 04:53 AM #3
lol
bottoms up !
magnet wise I've got quite a few.
Duct wise, yep a bit more width and depth wouldn't hurt the airflow :-)
No clue if the turbo nozzles work or not. definitely no air coming out the holes, but even a small bit of tissue doesn't stick, which you assume it would if there were a vacumn being generated.
As far as hot glue guns go - I'm not a big fan. Rather use epoxy putty or uhu all purpose glue. Particularly for something as smooth as a ball bearing.
For the arms I'd probably go with the uhu glue. the magnet would hold the ball tight to the tube while the glue set, which is pretty quick.
Dunno what solvent they use but it even eats pet-g :-)
Dogs back - gotta go wield a towel :-)
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07-23-2017, 06:15 AM #4
what are you printing on ?
350mm printbite runs at around £40.
Your print surface seems to work just as well, presume it was cheap :-)
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07-23-2017, 01:05 PM #5
well the round parts, don't actually need to be round.
Make the round parts square and move the bar back, then lay it on it's back to print.
The other approach is the flatten the bottoms of the round parts slightly, move the holes up the same amount and use support under the cross bar.
Also....
The clip-on kid strikes again !
Does it matter which wire I connect to which ?
IE: one of the z probe wires is white and red and the other is just white. Both wires on the end stop are white.
Tell a lie, if you turn it over, I got a red and white and a white as well - seems obvious put like that :-)Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-23-2017 at 01:19 PM.
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07-23-2017, 02:39 PM #6
inline with nozzle.
Now got to go look up the gcode thing for nozzle touching. I did the wires the same way round - just to be sure :-)
I'll upload to my thingiverse collection.
It's an entire 5, short lines of code in openscad :-)
At the very least we might get something out of wendy ;-)
Right lets see if this works.
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07-23-2017, 03:08 PM #7
Yep that works !
just 3 100ths of a millimetre between all three points.
I can live with that :-)
Much better than it was before. I knew one screw was off, but this really helped put it right.
clip unclipped. Need to make a holder for it.
Right redo z=0 and job done :-)
One of these days I'll have to try and work out how it's supposed to work.
That's enough for one day.Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-23-2017 at 03:42 PM.
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07-24-2017, 05:41 AM #8
The springs are fine. It's the crappy one bolt connectors to the frame that let it wobble.
Should be easy enough to make a connector that mounts with two bolts so it can't move.
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07-24-2017, 08:23 AM #9
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07-24-2017, 09:13 AM #10
New to 3d printing looking for...
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