Heaven help me - I've just bought a delta kit :-)

[curious aardvark]

that looks like a quarter of something.
What is it ?
10 hours ?

What settings are you using ?

[curious aardvark]

lol I'm currently doing the first quarter of a viking helmet.
I sneer at your palfry 67mm/s and reply with a 150mm/s , 0.3 3/3/3 and 15% infill :-)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2135965

Full size is 235mm diameter. Damn so have to print it in quarters.
2 hours 37 minutes per quarter.
Never seen a 3d printer run so fast.
Got a reel of horrible chcolatey brown. Figure if the helmet works i can spray paint it silver anyway :-)

And the reason i'm Printing a viking helmet is that I look like a viking :-)
Great big ginger beard and all. People keep telling me I need a viking helmet.
So why not :-)


Oh yeah you're right about the weird 140x140 x and y settings.

If you've had a failed print on this thing - you need to get some printbite :-)

150mm/s - I'm grinning like a loon. It's like watching a time lapse video of a normal 3d printer in real time.

[curious aardvark]

I'm pretty much just using s3d default retraction. 1.8mm - 60mm/s
Not getting stringing - so it works.

[curious aardvark]

lol mine is already on steroids :-)

Even doing a 1/4 at a time my viking helmet would not fit in the flashforge.

Right off to get some food.

Much as I enjoy watching alexa at work - I need food :-)

[curious aardvark]

I use teamviewer for all my remote control and support.
Even runs on phones and tablets :-)
www.teamviewer.com

[curious aardvark]

Currently starting part 2 of 4.
First quarter looks pretty great.

One thing to remember when printing fast - remember to slow the first layer down proportionally !
Had few false starts with number 2. Dropped first layer from 10% to 5 (so 7.5mm/s) and it's looking perfect this time :-)
And as we all know: getting the first layer right is 90% of getting the whole print right.

vikingpt1_640x480.jpg

How cool is that :-)
Going to print a couple small ones to try out colour schemes on.
I can knock a 1/4 size one out in 40 minutes.

Still trying to decide on a colour scheme. I've got some white filler that i can use to give the horns the right colour and texture of actual horn/bone. Was thinking about spraying the bands and 'bolts' silver and leaving the rest the brown of the filament. Would look more like a reinforced leather helmet that way.

Tested for size and should be plenty big enough for some interior padding - got masses of leather in my workshop,
Given the huge overhang, almost 90 degrees at the top - the fan is doing a good job even at speed.
Because I'm using the 16mm wide nozzle, it basically covers the whole print area.
Might make one with two 'horns'.
With the clip setup messing around with nozzle designs is a doddle :-)

Sizewise, hadn't thought about making the heat bed larger. I can get aluminium discs for free gratis and nothing - cut to any size I like :-)

And using the existing vertical struts for side pieces is a great idea.

Main issue with that would be getting the carriage arms the right length.

I think, if i bother, I'll get another k200 kit to play with.
Now I've got alexa dialled in - particularly with the flexibles - I'm reluctant to stick a longer bowden tube on that might bugger that up.

Need to make some money first anyway :-)

[curious aardvark]

pc psu's - got a few - even a mini-itx one from an itx case that's now on my sisters desk in canada :-)
Cost me £50 to get her a 120volt one - same psu would have been £15 over here.
Watching alexa print this overhang is pretty amazing.

Oh yeah when I'm wearing the helmet this is pretty much exactly what I'll look like - though I'm more a quarterstaff and axe man than swords.

Don't have the costume but I do have the big ginger beard :-)>

Might have to paint my pla viking axe as well lol (it's what i use to knock prints off the printbite when i can't be arsed to let it cool down)

[curious aardvark]

Thinking about it, pretty much the only thing you can't buy off the shelf or easily make are the corner pieces. I love the multi use design of those.

But I guess it would be simple enough to design something much easier to print.

Wonder what it would cost to do it completely from scratch.

The arms are only aluminium rods in sockets. So might be able to get them free as well.

[curious aardvark]

wow 6mm aluminium bed !
why ? That's massive overkill, plus would take all damn day to heat up.
3mm should be fine, 4 at a push, what am i missing ?

Plus if I'm using a pc psu for the bed, why not use it for the board as well.
Easy enough to use a 500watt.

Also why 1.8m vertical struts ? Current struts are 680mm. so to extend print height to 600mm I would only need 980mm verticals - you'd use 1metre lengths, just to save messing about chopping little bits off. If you go any taller you'll need to switch to 3mm filament and life's too short to have to buy two different filament thicknesses.

You're talking about a 1.5 metre build height. That wouldn't even fit in my workshop, unless I left it on the floor lol

The struts I'd have to buy, but any plate would be free.
These guys are clients of mine - and I like to keep the favour ratio in my favour :-)
http://www.jskaluminium.co.uk/engineering.html

[curious aardvark]

lol yeah but can you get it off again ?

That's the real beauty of printbite, not only does stuff stick to it - but it comes off without any hassle as well.
And as I've had prints richochet around the room in the past - getting it to stick is not as important as being able to get it off afterwards.

Getting struts cut to size - not a problem I've got a bandsaw, but in reality I'd just pop round to jsk and get them to do it :-)

At the moment if I'm going to build from scratch I'll probably have a go at the inverted delta first.
That looks like fun :-)

Helmets looking good. Although at thye moment looks like a standard bmx helmet. Guess the last 3 bits make the difference.
And the painting.

Spotted need for another mod.
The carriage wire bundle really needs to be held either up or out a lot more on larger prints.
The second set of helmet quarters are the other way round, and i can see the cable catching it at later points in the print.

The cable really needs to go almost straight up with a flexible rod to hold it away from any prints.
At the same time you've only got a few cm if it's at the edge of the plate and near a strut or belt.
Hmm, I'll have a think :-)