Close



Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 13 of 13
  1. #11
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,809
    With s3d I keep my multiplier at 1. I measure the extruded diameter of the filament and that's the number i use.
    With the pla I usually use it does extrude at 0.4 So that's my defualt.

    I don't have a dreamer. But settings for s3d seem pretty universal until people start buggering about with extrusion multipliers and extruded filament diameters. ;-)
    The extruded filament diameter is actually one of the most important settings as the slicer uses that as a basis for just about everything else.
    So you should really measure it each time you load new filament and use the actual diameter.

    As far as pla goes, I've found that for stronger more durable pla, print at the highest temp you can. I'm sure half the problems people claim for pla is because they're printing it as cold as they can.
    I usually run pla at 210. You get better layer bonding, no gaps and bugger all stringing. Take note though, I run the print area fan ALL the time. Not sure if the dreamer comes with one or not - if not, fit one. Best mod you can do.

    I print most things at 65 mm/s My wooden creator doesn't really like anything faster. I coudl probably print a lgood bit quicker on the klic-n-print. But I use that almost exclusively for flexibles - so I've never done any max speed tests on it. It's heavy solidmetal chassis and very well engineered so could probably print at 80 mm/s. One of these days I might test it :-)

    For fussy filaments I might go down to 50. For flexibles usually 20-30. For stupidly tiny things like the 6mm 8 toothed gears I made last year from petg - 10 mm/s
    But that's probably unique.
    The 3mm rubber tires were also printed at 10 mm/s
    All 5 components fitted on the surface of a dime :-)

    The best thing you can do to any 3d printer is fit a sheet of printbite: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ntbite-surface
    Just take all the hassle out of printing.
    I haven't used any glue, tape or needed a scraper for over a year. On an enclosed machine like yours I suspect it would be even better.
    Rather than glue it to the bed I'b be inclined to fit it with clips. For some flexibles you're better off with pva. But for 99% of filaments printbite takes a lot of beating.


    Retraction speed wise, it's recommended for stiff filaments to run it as fast as you can, think I'm currently set on 60 mm/s. I have no idea what happens if you run that too high :-)
    I upped it from 40 to 60 to see if colorfabbs woodfill would reduce stringing at a higher speed. Nope.
    But the strings just rub off, so not a big deal. Not sure why it keeps extruding when the motor stops. Probably something to do with the thermal expansion of wood.
    Might try printing it a little cooler. Might not lol

    It's good stuff, just don't expect tidy prints till you've had a quick go with a sanding block :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 03-28-2017 at 01:18 PM.

  2. #12
    Well I definitely just archived that post to my computer. So much useful information there! Thank you! I am running similar specs to you it would seem. The printer came with kapton tape adhered and I haven't been having any real issues with sticking on the first layer. The one print I had issue with I used a raft on. I have a fan on the carriage that blows directly on the extruder head just like in the flashforge creator pro and others. It points to only the left extruder though so I have been using that one exclusively until I can print a duct to allow cooling for both nozzles. I had heard somebody mention there is a way to adjust the top few layers of a print in s3d to ensure enough plastic is extruded to cover the top and prevent any gaps from appearing... any idea what that is or how to accomplish it? I feel like I'm missing something here as to why my prints are not fully enclosed on the top yet. When I run calibrations it seems to be printing too wide at 1 and the calculations say i should be at roughly .88 but .95 still leaves little open seams on the top layer or two.

  3. #13
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,809
    Never get gaps in my top layers.
    Just One advantage of printing hot. The plastic flows better, bonds better and gives stronger prints.

    As far as calculations go - you're over thinking it. Leave extrusion multiplier at 1.
    You should be able to adjust the rest with temperature and print speed.

    And layers. I rarely use less than 3 layers and outlines.

    never had an issue with gaps, but then I don't bugger about with settings that don't need messing with :-)

    Mind you I also never bothered with calibration prints. You soon learn what your printer does or doesn't do and design accordingly.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •