Wiring a Solid State Relay to Ramps

[uncle_bob]

Thanks. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , but not sure when or if I will hook it up. My printer is working well with no heat bed. I am using blue tape & glue stick for PLA & PETG. Small parts I do not use the glue stick. I am almost finished a 6 hour print of a vertex for an Emmett-Delta printer & the print looks really good. I just changed my wades extruder to a titan extruder last week.

Hi

If you run the 40A relay on the heated bed, you probably should have a heatsink on it.

I have never used anything other than hairspray on glass with the Makerfarm printers. It has always worked great for everything I have printed. That includes PETG, PLA, ABS and a few odd filaments.

Bob

[PyramidDave]

I should have mentioned I did order a heat sink also. That has not arrived yet.

I tried the hair spray & used that for the 1st year, but occasionally something would lift up on a corner. I do not print ABS though. The only problems I have with blue tape & glue is if the bed is not level or I did not adhere the tape down well.

[uncle_bob]

I should have mentioned I did order a heat sink also. That has not arrived yet.

I tried the hair spray & used that for the 1st year, but occasionally something would lift up on a corner. I do not print ABS though. The only problems I have with blue tape & glue is if the bed is not level or I did not adhere the tape down well.

Hi

The only times I have had a lift with hair spray have been on non-level beds or on ABS. There, the print fractured about as often as the corner lifted. With the layers separating on 270C ABS, it's not an adhesion issue .....

Bob

[longjohn119]

I should have mentioned I did order a heat sink also. That has not arrived yet.

I tried the hair spray & used that for the 1st year, but occasionally something would lift up on a corner. I do not print ABS though. The only problems I have with blue tape & glue is if the bed is not level or I did not adhere the tape down well.

I have mine heatsinked but if you have a V-slot framed printer you could probably get away with attaching it to the aluminum frame and use that as your heatsink for up to 10" heatbed. A 12" would probably be pushing it and need a regular heatsink. I attached my heatsink to the v-slot (Pegasus 10, full metal) and found a printed cover for the SSR on Thingieverse and it actually looks pretty cool, almost a Steam Punk look with that heatsink

My first printer didn't have a heated bed so I used the painter's tape for about a year and a half but I prefer the heated bed once I started using one. I do occasionally use the blue tape for 'effect' when I want a matte rather than a shiny surface. I make a lot of electronics project enclosures and on many projects it just looks more professional. Large flat pieces I usually include a brim which helps considerably. Also the auto bed leveling helped getting an more consistent 1st layer height which seems to help noticeably with adhesion and warping.