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11-21-2016, 01:52 AM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2016
- Posts
- 13
If you did go with a SSR you should really consider setting it up like an 8" heater hooked directly to the onboard FET with PID control. I changed over from a relay because with Bang-Bang I was get poor regulation of temp and on 0.1 mm layers there was enough glass warp to make the tip drag on occasion. Also with a translucent PLA I'd get slight changes in color on the first couple of layers as it heated and cooled leaving sort of diagonal stripes although they don't really show on the finished print. I did however visually illustrate the wide variance in temperature compared to PID control. It works a lot better now with the SSR and PID enabled and AutoPID run for the bed.
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11-21-2016, 02:34 PM #2
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Location
- Brevard, NC
- Posts
- 182
Thanks. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , but not sure when or if I will hook it up. My printer is working well with no heat bed. I am using blue tape & glue stick for PLA & PETG. Small parts I do not use the glue stick. I am almost finished a 6 hour print of a vertex for an Emmett-Delta printer & the print looks really good. I just changed my wades extruder to a titan extruder last week.
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11-21-2016, 02:49 PM #3
- Join Date
- Jul 2016
- Location
- Pennsylvania, USA
- Posts
- 255
Hi
If you run the 40A relay on the heated bed, you probably should have a heatsink on it.
I have never used anything other than hairspray on glass with the Makerfarm printers. It has always worked great for everything I have printed. That includes PETG, PLA, ABS and a few odd filaments.
Bob
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11-21-2016, 03:58 PM #4
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Location
- Brevard, NC
- Posts
- 182
I should have mentioned I did order a heat sink also. That has not arrived yet.
I tried the hair spray & used that for the 1st year, but occasionally something would lift up on a corner. I do not print ABS though. The only problems I have with blue tape & glue is if the bed is not level or I did not adhere the tape down well.
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11-21-2016, 04:17 PM #5
- Join Date
- Jul 2016
- Location
- Pennsylvania, USA
- Posts
- 255
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11-22-2016, 02:27 AM #6
- Join Date
- Aug 2016
- Posts
- 13
I have mine heatsinked but if you have a V-slot framed printer you could probably get away with attaching it to the aluminum frame and use that as your heatsink for up to 10" heatbed. A 12" would probably be pushing it and need a regular heatsink. I attached my heatsink to the v-slot (Pegasus 10, full metal) and found a printed cover for the SSR on Thingieverse and it actually looks pretty cool, almost a Steam Punk look with that heatsink
My first printer didn't have a heated bed so I used the painter's tape for about a year and a half but I prefer the heated bed once I started using one. I do occasionally use the blue tape for 'effect' when I want a matte rather than a shiny surface. I make a lot of electronics project enclosures and on many projects it just looks more professional. Large flat pieces I usually include a brim which helps considerably. Also the auto bed leveling helped getting an more consistent 1st layer height which seems to help noticeably with adhesion and warping.
Please explain to me how to...
05-17-2024, 12:15 PM in 3D Printer Parts, Filament & Materials