Buying my first 3D printer. Australia. On a budget but looking for good quality

[Sebastian Finke]

... I have a long flexible shaft too...

*quietly leaves thread*

[KoroKoro]

my budget is around 650~700 AUD delivered... so I might start looking at local over priced ones.

Locally, I can get a Da Vinci 1.0 for $699
http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/o...ter-mmdvin1jnr

Though on specs alone... the Geeetech MeCreator2 for $568 delivered seems like the better deal.

I have searched online, and I couldn't find anything in Sydney. There was an importer in QLD whos gone out of business and a guy in VIC who just on sells the expensive stuff.

As for tolerances, something +/- 0.3mm would be adequate. For anything finer I would modify with hand tools anyway. Things like bore size, pin size etc aren't that critical. However the oddly shaped dome on top (3D contours) need to be somewhat accurate. Its just for a starting point as I can modify with hand tools. Piston to valve clearance at this stage is not critical, as that will be set exactly on the mill when its in metal. Unfortunately without a lathe and a cnc mill, it would be too hard to make a prototype out of metal.

I haven't had the best experience buying electronics from china as they tend to be made absurdly cheap. I've previously bought stuff that broke within a few days of normal use... and was more expensive to ship back (at my expense too) so thats left a bad taste in my mouth... Unfortunately, there isn't much option where I live.

Though I guess you get what you pay for... but still $700 isn't chump change.

p.s. Sebastian, your axis confuse me haha. i much prefer using the metric system where Z axis is up/down. Is this going to stuff up my models? I intend to draw in Autodesk Inventor... I have the CAM addon, though this is for reductive machining... And the G-code is probably not going to work with the printer. Though I really like the idea of fitting a dremel with a carbide burr for some plastic CNC machining... but I'm not sure if the cantilever bed type would be ideal for this... which is also why I found that aluminium geetech one attractive... though again, I don't like those wonky threaded rods.

Thoughts?

[3dworkbench]

How big of a printer do you need? What kind of materials will you be working with?

[KoroKoro]

sebastian, dont act like you dont have one



this prototype i am needing is only 50 x 50 x 50. Though who knows what I'll be printing in the future. The prototype will just be made from ABS plastic, though for when I print other parts which need strength, this carbon fibre filament sounds good.
The alloy max size of 200 x 200 x 180 sounds useful. Since this will open many more avenues, I could be printing PCBs, stuff for RC hobby... so many possibilities. I'd hate to find that I need 50mm more.

Anything else I should consider before buying this?

[Sebastian Finke]

sebastian, dont act like you dont have one



this prototype i am needing is only 50 x 50 x 50. Though who knows what I'll be printing in the future. The prototype will just be made from ABS plastic, though for when I print other parts which need strength, this carbon fibre filament sounds good.
The alloy max size of 200 x 200 x 180 sounds useful. Since this will open many more avenues, I could be printing PCBs, stuff for RC hobby... so many possibilities. I'd hate to find that I need 50mm more.

Anything else I should consider before buying this?

That won't be suitable for ABS, unless you make a hood that completely covers the entire printer and that'll be a pain to heat and keep hot.

[mazzi16]

If you look at this one:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/free...b-4eb0efa5a4a3

It has proper lead screws,rather than the threaded rod on the ebay one.It has an acrylic frame,and though some people don,t like them,mine has been perfectly fine for 2 years.
Close to $500au seems rather a lot for that ebay job.It,s still coming from China,so if you cut out the middleman,you,ll save a coupla hundred bucks.The alloy frame is perhaps an advantage,but the z-axis allthread rods aren't.
As for the electronics,almost ALL of that type of stuff is now made in China,Korea,or Malaysia.Their quality levels have risen rapidly,adding reliability,and I predict the prices will catch up sooner or later.
I would shy away from anything with a Melzi control board,mine burned out the bed heater after about a months use.But that is just my personal opinion,for what it's worth.

[3dworkbench]

A personal tip, try to buy from Amazon, something like the WanHao? https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Sel...s_6066127011_3

Their buyer protection programs are off the charts. Selling there is a pain in the arse but you are protected 100%

[KoroKoro]

perhaps the threaded rod wont be a deal breaker. Looks like I can upgrade that part without too much hassle. square acme threads look pretty easy to get.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8mm-T8-Tr...RHJRXEacuJH3fQ

The 1mm pitch, 1mm lead with support bearings on each end looks ideal

I dunno about thinner steel frames (that front plate looks like its only 0.9 or 1.2mm) ... 6mm ally still looks quite sturdy.

[KoroKoro]

also, just wondering... for cnc side of things, do people replace those belts with acme threads too? those belts look quite stretchy

[KoroKoro]

So just a hood? I dont think that will be difficult. I have many clear 50L tubs that could do the job. Though as a more permanent solution would be nice to keep it protected from dust and cats. I'm not so worried about swarf. Or is it more an issue of heating wattage? I thought the part needs to cool do avoid sagging and mushing detail.

https://youtu.be/7LVu3Ir10UQ?t=6m56s