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06-14-2015, 08:31 PM #1
Actually Amazon has some. You want a 24volt supply at about 15-16 amps. I think the powerspecs are 12amps. It should say on it.
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08-04-2015, 03:07 PM #2
Out for about about a week, accepting preorders. Will ship out as soon as I get parts.
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08-10-2015, 05:47 PM #3
- Join Date
- Jan 2015
- Posts
- 2
I'm struggling to get my extruder nozzles aligned as well and came across the same issue as SL666...the extruder motors must be removed to get to the set screw holding the nozzles in place. On another forum a user said to just shove the extruder all the way into the aluminum block. Seems reasonable but there's insulation around the extruder which likely eliminates any precision here.
i decided to go with your method, with a change: I remounted the whole extruder assembly but without the motors. In their place I used nuts to hold everything in place and could then get to the set screws and align the nozzles to the plate (your method). Once that was done I reinstalles the stepper motors. Crude but effective. Hope this helps someone, as the original post is brilliant, sans manufacturing changes!
Oh, and another question: does it matter if the extruder nozzles are covered with crud, so long as the tips are clean and unobstructed?
And for SL666: whenever I change filament I start by feeding (loading) filament before going into the unload step. Reduces those annoying disassemblies.Last edited by HelicopterCrash; 08-14-2015 at 07:50 PM. Reason: Made a mistake...
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08-14-2015, 03:56 PM #4
- Join Date
- Aug 2015
- Posts
- 2
After reading every single post and going down a few tangents, I finally took the plunge and took apart my Dreamer. I used the instructions from page 6. I got my Dreamer in June 2015. It has dual fans in the back. Thank you to each of you for posting pictures and explaining in detail what to expect when taking the extruders off and reattaching them.
I started off just wanting to align the extruders. But then I lost a screw, so I had to take the bottom case off. And then I broke the side piece that goes to the side fan, so I had to reprint another one.
IT's been a blast. I never thought that I could do it. But, I did. And I'm proud. Ok. Self-confessed Noob. Mom of 5. Grad student. CEO of a small business. Trying to learn to help the future generation of kids.
Desh
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09-11-2015, 01:32 PM #5
Still in the process of filling back orders, what name was yours under. PM if you want.
Thanks.
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09-11-2015, 04:56 PM #6
- Join Date
- Aug 2015
- Posts
- 31
PM sent.. thanks!
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11-12-2015, 04:33 PM #7
- Join Date
- Nov 2015
- Posts
- 1
I placed an order and sent you a PM. Thanks!
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11-13-2015, 10:51 AM #8
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11-16-2015, 07:46 PM #9
I fixed this problem by ordering some cheap 0.002 inch thick stainless steel shims from McmasterCarr. I cut them into little pieces.
I loosened the bolt that holds the extruder head assembly on, slid the shims in the gap and retightened until the heads were even. Works like a charm and you don't have to deal with multiple extruder disassemblies.
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12-04-2015, 05:14 AM #10
- Join Date
- Oct 2015
- Posts
- 11
All,
The tool you are looking for to measure gaps is called a 'feeler gauge'. You can get them in English (.00x inches) or Metric (.0x mm) and they are cheap as can be. $10 USD or less, and found in almost any automotive store. Each blade is a different thickness and usually made of hardened steel. The English one I have is .001, .0015, .002, .003 inches and on up.
I measured the print head card that came with the FF Pro and it is 0.19 mm thick. A feeler gauge is used in the same manner.
Here is a metric one on Amazon so you understand what I am referring to http://smile.amazon.com/Metric-Thick...r+guage+metric.
PS>
- The print nozzles need a 9mm wrench to remove the brass nozzle, I prefer a socket and finger tighten only. A socket will also shave off most of the plastic gunk melted on the nozzle. A 'nut driver' would probably be better if you don't already have a socket set.
- And a 5/64 inch (2mm) drill bit will clean out the nylon tube, slow speed and please don't drill through your finger. You can buy individual drill bits at Lowes or Home Depot.
- An 'inspection mirror' allows you to find the screws holding the print head assembly to the carriage without bending over. A short one is fine, or use a ladies 'make up mirror'.
Here in the US an inexpensive place to get these items is Harbor Freight. Also you can find these items at Sears. Not sure if Lowes or Home Depot carries feeler gauges.
Hope this saves you some time!Last edited by bkochis; 12-04-2015 at 05:54 AM.
Please explain to me how to...
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