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01-12-2015, 02:07 PM #1
Thanks, just saw the notification pop up. I hope to have a video up on installation/use of it later this week but was busy printing misc stuff this weekend. I too had the same issue of getting the thermal barrier tubes out after the set screw leaves its mark. The set screws really gall things up. On my original flashforge parts I ended up drilling out the mounting hole a little, but this doesn't do anything for heat transfer at all since only a sliver of metal to metal contact is left after the set screw pushes the tube forward in the hole.
One of the most important things to do when putting this new system on is getting the thermal tubes nice and smooth again. This will help insure that the tubes slide up and down easily when the clamps are loosened. I have been using the system for a couple of months now with no issues. Periodically check the clamp bolt to make sure it is tight.
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04-03-2016, 05:17 PM #2
- Join Date
- Apr 2016
- Posts
- 1
Still selling your setup?
- Are you still selling the setup for adjustment on the dual extruders for the FF creator pro?
- Do you recommend the smaller filament ptfe and why?
- Do you still use the same cooling setup for PLA or can you modify pretty much the same way with any of the mod's people have posted???
Thanks in advance!
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04-04-2016, 04:42 AM #3
Hey there. Yep I have some in stock.
I do recommend the smaller PTFE tubing. It is more flexible and it allows you to load a new roll of filament without pausing since you can just push a new filament roll right after the empty one. With the bigger tubing this is more difficult since the filaments will pass each other in the tubing. The PTFE is translucent also so you can see where the filament is in the tubing.
I don't run any PLA, but the big frog looking PLA fan setup clips into the front of the carriage just like normal.
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01-20-2015, 07:59 AM #4
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01-23-2015, 04:12 PM #5
- Join Date
- Jan 2015
- Posts
- 47
Couple of notes for *total* noobs doing this with the newer Creator Pro.
It's not as hard as it sounds. It's mostly time consuming due to the lack of instructions available to you.
Notes on the instructions in the first post:
Your step screws are on the back of the bar the extruders are attached to. This means that like the second guy posting with the wooden kit, you're going to have to disassemble the whole extruder.
Because you have to disassemble the extruder it is entirely possible to push the extruder head up too far. It will prevent you from being able to reattach the plate because the back screw won't be long enough...this is a lesson that cost me an extra 45 minutes to figure out when I couldn't get the back screw to reach the plate.
Basics and things to know/do before you start:
With projects like this every time you remove a piece take a picture. You'll feel stupid, but it is so nice to refer back to them. Occasionally Flashforge will change the assembly/parts used and so knowing exactly what your specific machine looked like as opposed to what someone elses looked like will be very useful.
Turn the machine off, and unplug it before you disassemble. Ground yourself before you disassemble. You can do this by touching the bottom screw of the nearest light switch.
Get a bowl/deep plate/bead container. You're going to be taking a lot of small pieces apart and it's super easy to lose them. Every time you take of a screw or other piece drop it in the container. You may want multiple so that you keep the pieces separated by where they go.
When you take off the first fan put a small piece of blue tape on it so that you remember which fan goes on which side. The step motors(big silver black pieces that feed the filament) can't be put back on the wrong side as long as you pay attention to the spring, and you'll get the bar right as long as you remember that the set screws go towards the back, but the fans getting mixed up could prevent proper cooling and result in damage to the machine if you don't pay attention.
Supplies:-
-A bowl(s) or set of containers for the pieces as you take it apart
- The wrench set you got with the printer. If the hex wrenches don't fit the screws they aren't screws you need to worry about.
- A large but thin hardcover book
Optional:
- A grounding wrist strap
Steps:
1. Unload filament then turn off and unplug the machine
2. Ground yourself. Easiest way is usually to touch the bottom screw of a nearby light switch.
3. Take your hex wrench that came with the machine and detach the extruder
4. Lift the extruder up and place the book over the top opening of the machine. This will give you a decent working space for disassembly.
5. Begin by removing a fan. Behind the fan is some weird looking pieces of metal. They help cool the stepper motors and are pretty vital. Don't lose them of the white plastic things. Remember the order they came off in(pictures pictures and more pictures)
6. Follow same steps to remove the other fan
7. There are two screws running from the extruder bar to the plastic plate on the top, Remove the first one completely.
8. Undo the second screw, You can leave it and the plate attached or you can remove them and set them aside.
9. The extruder bar should be free. Note the positioning of the wires. Should run in between the stepper motors.
10. Flip the extruder bar over. Remove both set screws(refer to images in first post) Do NOT lose the set screws. They are tiny. They are the main reason you're going to want a bowl.
11. Pull the nozzles down slightlyBe somewhat gentle, you'll want to use a twisting motion. There may be a "pop" on the first twist before it starts to come down, this is normal, just don't overdo it and be mindful of the wires attached to the back.
12. Reassemble everything without reattaching to the printer or putting the set screws back in.
13. With the everything reattached you won't have to measure the nozzle height. Simply push them back up as high as they can go under gentle pressure.
14. Disassemble again, being careful not to bump the extruders out of place.
15. Replace the set screws
16. Reassemble the extruder, placing it, but not attaching it, on the holder for it in the printer
17. Turn printer back on and test loading filament.
18. During heating pay attention to which fan turns on. If you put the fan on the wrong side remove the fans and put them on the correct side.
18. Make sure that the filament extrudes in a straight line. Let it extrude for a while(minimum 30 seconds) to ensure that there isn't a blockage.
19. once filament extrudes correctly turn everything back off, and reattach the extruder with screws.
20. Level the build plate
21. do a test print
If the print comes out alright you're golden!Last edited by GamerDarling; 01-24-2015 at 09:08 AM.
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01-30-2015, 12:45 PM #6
Hi, just sold the last one a couple days ago, except for the one I am using. :-)
Wasn't sure if I was gonna do another run but wouldn't you know when you run out all the sudden demand picks up. lol
I can have more in a couple weeks but I was gonna see if a few preorders could come in before committing to a production run.
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01-31-2015, 06:26 AM #7
- Join Date
- Jan 2015
- Posts
- 47
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02-16-2015, 05:16 PM #8
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Location
- California, USA
- Posts
- 6
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01-31-2015, 09:45 AM #9
Very easy, it is some disassembly and reassembly. The most important thing is smoothing the thermal barrier tube. The set screw that normally holds it in place gouges into the metal, this has to be fully smoothed out and polished for the tube to slide up and down properly.
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02-17-2015, 12:11 PM #10
Yep, still taking pre orders. Should have them ready to ship in 2 weeks.
New to 3d printing looking for...
05-20-2024, 12:56 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help