Flashforge Creator Dual / Pro How to fix Dual Extruders dragging across prints.

[Paul Jolly]

All,
The tool you are looking for to measure gaps is called a 'feeler gauge'. You can get them in English (.00x inches) or Metric (.0x mm) and they are cheap as can be. $10 USD or less, and found in almost any automotive store. Each blade is a different thickness and usually made of hardened steel. The English one I have is .001, .0015, .002, .003 inches and on up.

I measured the print head card that came with the FF Pro and it is 0.19 mm thick. A feeler gauge is used in the same manner.

Here is a metric one on Amazon so you understand what I am referring to http://smile.amazon.com/Metric-Thick...r+guage+metric.
PS>

• The print nozzles need a 9mm wrench to remove the brass nozzle, I prefer a socket and finger tighten only. A socket will also shave off most of the plastic gunk melted on the nozzle. A 'nut driver' would probably be better if you don't already have a socket set.
• And a 5/64 inch (2mm) drill bit will clean out the nylon tube, slow speed and please don't drill through your finger. You can buy individual drill bits at Lowes or Home Depot.
• An 'inspection mirror' allows you to find the screws holding the print head assembly to the carriage without bending over. A short one is fine, or use a ladies 'make up mirror'.

Here in the US an inexpensive place to get these items is Harbor Freight. Also you can find these items at Sears. Not sure if Lowes or Home Depot carries feeler gauges.
Hope this saves you some time!

Hi Folks,
For those in the UK you can get a set of feeler gauges 0.05 to 0.8mm from Toolstation at £2.62 their reference number is 70627.
Before you ask, I do not have any affiliation with the company, I am just a customer.

[n_ice_drone]

FFCP Noob here...is the FFCP 2015 version/model affected as well by the dragging problem? I printed a large bathtub model a week ago and it came out pretty ok me thinks:

WP_20160207_19_00_57_Pro.jpg

[Horia]

Any info about how to troubleshoot the head height difference with the new FFCP?

[warkmal]

For the last little adjustment, it is waaay easier to use a shim between the cooling bar and the carriage than to mess with the set screw and the heatbreak tube.

[Grindeddown]

For the last little adjustment, it is waaay easier to use a shim between the cooling bar and the carriage than to mess with the set screw and the heatbreak tube.

Could you you show me a pic of what your talking about? Do you mean to insert very thin shims where the cooling bar is clamped to the carriage to essentially offset the height of whatever nozzle is lower?

[warkmal]

Could you you show me a pic of what your talking about? Do you mean to insert very thin shims where the cooling bar is clamped to the carriage to essentially offset the height of whatever nozzle is lower?

Rich Webb posted a pretty diagram here: https://groups.google.com/d/msg/flas...4/c9IABy6eBQAJ

However, when you get there be sure to expand the message, Google hid the image below the fold. You do this my clicking on the little dashed message below his post.

[warkmal]

By the way, I prefer to use thick silicon baking mat cut down to fit. I put one on both sides so I can adjust the height by compressing the silicon more or less by tightening the bolts.

[ByteSlinger]

You mentioned you want them slightly different heights, is there a specific one you want to be higher than the other?
Currently I'm printing with my right extruder (Which according to the FF instructions is the one you're meant to use when levelling the bed) but the left nozzle is definitely is very VERY slightly lower and keeps catching my prints. Only very lightly, but it's enough to pull the odd bit off the bed if it's not stuck down well.
Is this that the nozzle is out of whack or my levels or my settings, or just that my adhesion isn't good enough?

[Nozzle]

Also, you can go to File/Preferences and set the preferred extruder to Left so it will always default to the Left extruder.