Warped Prints

[ixlr8]

Yes, as filament has a variance. I personally set mine to 1.80mm as I found setting it to 1.78 gave me alot of clicking and filament slipping problems.

What does this parameter actually change? Is feedrate and tool speed affected by this variable?

[Geoff]

What does this parameter actually change? Is feedrate and tool speed affected by this variable?

I really have no idea to be perfectly honest. Like yourself, no manuals anywhere or troubleshooting guides so just trial and error when I came into problems.

I bought a reel of Crystal Clear ABS (I think called "High Impact Crystal Clear") Essentially tho, it looks like all the other clear ABS. .. nothing special. However, when I went to use it it would click click click click, and the thing would not feed... tried all the temperature setting sunder the sun, and nothing helped, nothing.

So started playing around with other settings, and eventually after changing the filament diamenter from 1.75 to 1.8 in replicatorG, all my problems went away with that filament. It now feeds perfectly. Having pulled these apart now into complete bits, there is no way that it affects the actual diameter - so all I can think if is it does something to the feeder gear - but that's what controls the resoution, so Im still a bit hazy on it. You have a 0.4mm nozzle on the machine, so printing at 0.2mm seems to just slow the feed as well, how it makes it thinner I really don't know to be honest. All I know is the second I changed it to 1.8mm diameter in the settings, the thing printed like a dream.

[jimc]

yes you really need to measure every roll of filament in a few spots and take an average. this value must really be changed with every roll. your slicer will use this to mathematically figure out how much plastic needs to be extruded. if you have it set to say 1.75 but you filament is actually 1.78 then your printer will be extruding more plastic than it thinks it is. you end up with parts that are out of tolerance or too much plastic being pushed around on each layer which can cause the nozzle to drag, hit your part or just sloppy top surfaces and walls. its very similar to just turning your extrusion multiplier way up or down.

[Geoff]

yes you really need to measure every roll of filament in a few spots and take an average. this value must really be changed with every roll. your slicer will use this to mathematically figure out how much plastic needs to be extruded. if you have it set to say 1.75 but you filament is actually 1.78 then your printer will be extruding more plastic than it thinks it is. you end up with parts that are out of tolerance or too much plastic being pushed around on each layer which can cause the nozzle to drag, hit your part or just sloppy top surfaces and walls. its very similar to just turning your extrusion multiplier way up or down.

I leave mine set at 1.8, after nearly 2 years of trial and error I find with this particular machine it's a pretty safe bet. I also live in a humid environment where filament can tend to swell.

I dont measure my filament anymore, I go through that much unless it's giving me issues I just don't bother really. Nozzle drag shouldn't be happening anyway if they are levelled and the other hotend isnt actually in use, and if it use you can use dribble supports.

[wirlybird]

A couple observations.
1st: I wouldn't use a raft unless it is a part that requires it such as very limited contact with the bed. Also make sure the bed is clean. Acetone or alcohol to clean with.
2nd: Make sure the printer is enclosed and shielded from drafts such as air conditioning.
3rd: Let the machine pre-heat for a while with the bed to get the temp up in the chamber.
4th: You can start to drop the bed temp after the first layer probably down to 100. May take some experimentation.
5th: You will probably need something to help with adhesion such as hair spray or glue stick or ABS juice.
6th: Make sure the parts cooling fan is not on.
7th: Speed. Slow first layer then I would try around 2400mm/min to start with and use a .2 layer height.

When you had an issue with PLA you mention using the same temps - if it is what you used for ABS then WAY to high! PLA - 65 bed to start then drop after first layer and 200 to start on extruder.

[djprinter]

I only print in ABS and I've completely solved my warping issues.

Glass plate
Hairspray (aqua-net extra super-hold)
110 bed temp
heated chamber to 50c: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1524781

The heated chamber is only needed if you are printed tall long pieces.

[zfrenchy]

PLA
S3D 4.1.1 -> edit process -> temperature -> bed -> layer 1 : 70C, layer 3: 60C
S3D 4.1.1 -> edit process -> temperature -> extruder -> layer 1 : 195C, layer 3: 205C