Warped Prints

[Geoff]

Thanks MrWayne and Geoff,

I'm going to try some different settings like you suggested. I understand the white ABS is a tricky beast anyway?

Is everyone using 1.75mm for the stock filament thickness? Just curious.

I'm using 230 extruder temp normally for white ABS - forgot to add that above. Stock bed with kapton.

If a corner is warping, and then you turn the model and print it in a different direction, does it still warp in the same corner? technically it should, which would be a slightly unlevel hotbed.

I just had a big argument with flashforge in the phillipines (only know them through facebook) I saw a print on their page that was really warped, and I said that's probably not a good example print to show, so they go and post all my good prints in their page - thats cool, no worries. Then the guy from philipines flashforge goes on to tell me to fix my warping problem I need a glass hotbed. So I said, #1 I dont agree, Ive tried and it's not as effective in transferring heat evenly as aluminium, look at my prints buddy I said, do I have any friggin warping issues? im trying to help you, but being the company of course they know best... but then I said #2 if you think its so much better,then sell your damn machines with them! pyrex isnt expensive, if they can sell a bong made of pyrex for $20, they can make a 22cmx15cm sheet even cheaper.

I can also offer another suggestion, this is how I level my hotbed:

I use a standard A4 piece of paper, full size.

1. Do the standard levelling in the menu first, tighten the screws 4-5 turns each and level it like you normally would.

2. Run the levelling script again, BUT BEFORE you run it, put the A4 sheet on the hot bed, and DON'T tighten the screws this time.

3. The bed will start the levelling script - and with any luck that a4 paper will get squished in between the bed and the nozzle and you wont be able to move it. I say that's good because you want to be on the tighter side, not the looser side of things.

Now, adjust the thumbscrews when you are asked to in the right order, but all the while keeping the paper on the hotbed. Jiggle the A4 sheet till it moves a touch and its just got some friction, then move on to the next area to level.

The idea is, instead of trying to slide it under the nozzle each time to test it, its already there - making it a much faster levelling process. I often repeat this 2-3 times if I am printing a very large part, say, like a predator mask..





All plastic, be it PLA or ABS can be a bit funny, after a couple of years now and the amount that I have ordered, I think I've been though most of the quirks they have, i'll try and run down in brief.

The country of manufacture makes a big difference, avoid India (#1, avoid india.. their plastic is awful. Full of particles and debris, thats why its dirt cheap.)

Colours make a big difference also, I find as a rule the brighter the colour, the less the filament needs to melt. I start at 222c and test print until its printing "dry" i.e without any goop being left behind or spiderwebs when the nozzle moves.