It’s BIG PRINT time !!
I spent some time prepping and testing the traditional "test print" Rook file from Thingiverse for printing. I prepared it in Cura according to the recommended Peachy Cura settings with a 2% Fill.

Results !!
Mixed.
Due to difficulties maintaining drip speed, the print looks quite mangled. …but is it?
Ok, yes. It's totally fubared but what's important to know is that it was only few minor settings that made it this way.

This print took over 4 hours and 20 minutes to print. Since it was "averaging" about 1.2 drips per second this isn’t surprising.

Due to slightly weak curing (more below) and drip speed spikes that caused skipped layers (7.8% of all layers were skipped), the print kind of looks like a spring. Also due to this weakness, the rook leaned over while draining the water which caused even more splits.

A bit about Slic3r and Cura
I’ve discovered that Slic3r is only 32bit. This means that prints with very large areas or 10X the Z resolution (..of a typical FDM printer), the data buffers overflow and crash Slic3r. Cura handles this fine, so I’m back to using Cura. The Slic3r team is aware of this issue and is investigating a fix.
Some important Cura settings that are not detailed in the Peachy Cura Setup video are the “Start/End Gcode” settings.
Super simple. Go into the “Start/End Gcode” tab and delete ALL Gcode in the Start and End text areas. NONE of that gcode is applicable to the Peachy and has actually caused me problems. Just get rid of it !

Some Peachy Setting Changes
I changed the laser speed and power to be 100mm/s and 95% power (previous successful print was 80mm/s & 99%) since it was set a bit too high for that print. The Rook was wobbly once the water was drained and since it was printed on a 15 degree slant, it warped slightly from its weight. Using a higher laser speed was essential as I needed each layer to print as fast as possible but I will be raising the power back to 99%.

Propping up the Reservoir Bottle
This was really tricky. Since the drip speed had to be at about ONE drip/s, I had to use very thin books/magazines to prop up the bottle. I started with 2 DVD cases. That set the speed at about 2.5 drips/s which was fine for the start (small surface area). Once the speed dropped down (because the water levels in each container are now different) I added another DVD case. This increased the speed to over 3 and I started getting skipped layers. I removed that case and scoured the house for thinner alternatives. On top of the 2 DVDs, I added 8 CDs, 6 MAKE mags and 4 very thin books equaling 18 increments during the print. Each layer added caused Skipped Layers. If the drip speed required would have been in the 4 to 6 range then it would have been easy to just let the speed drop low then add a new layer that did not put it over the top.
Unfortunately, complex prints take too much time to print each layer and the required drip speed can’t be easily maintained.

Solutions
I see a few ways to SOLVE this issue:

1) Make the print simpler.
In other words, print it smaller and don't use fill. This isn't really a solution but rather just a compensation. I want a way to be able to do BIG complex prints!

2)Abandon the dripper completely.
The Peachy team made a Z-Axis system utilizing a stepper motor for the Peachy and the design files are on the github repo. The Peachy software is also setup and ready for this system.

3)Use a larger build container.
A 2L pop bottle simply can’t be beat for low cost and ease of availability. LOW COST was the primary goal of the Peachy printer and the dripper system allowed that to happen. All things considered, the drip system really is quite slick and does a fabulous job given what it is. Unfortunately pop bottles don’t have a very large surface area. Increasing the surface area would allow for much more resolution with the drip speed and thus significantly reduce or eliminate print problems due to drip speed spikes and “skipped layers”.
I already have a design drafted. 150mm X 150mm X 200mm (5.9”x5.9”x7.9”) with a lid (with glass top) and external drip input and drain output (simplifies cleaning and reduces smell). There are a couple parts for this that I wanted to print. Thankfully they are small and should print beautifully! I consider this a more reasonable build area for 3D printing. It’s on the small side but still small enough to have on your desk and print items of a useful size.

4) Stepper-based Z-Axis **AND** Larger build container !! Why not have it all ;-)

You can see the print here: Rook1 Image Gallery
https://postimg.org/gallery/2bd73bb4k/

What’s Next ?!?
There are a few things I have in the cue:

Create new build container
-Finish 3D modelling some small parts
-Print them
-Laser cut clear acrylic and glass parts
-Design and cut Peachy mounting legs for lid
-Put it all together
-Calibrate new container with Peachy software

Cura
-Explore Rafting in Cura