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  1. #25
    Student
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Scotland
    Posts
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    Quote Originally Posted by VonKlutch View Post
    clearly the problem isnt what he has on his print bed.
    Though theres alot of good techniquest being discussed here.
    I personally rock a no name white glue stick. Cheap like borscht. (hell sometimes i apply it once and just print for a week on that) reapplying the glue can make for a rough surface and cause defects on the bottom layer.(doesnt always matter)

    Anyways, you said it yourself when you move the model it prints. Thats your bed level. No idea what kind of printer you have or how it levels the bed but you should try moving the head around and adjustint it to the print bed using a peice of paper as a spacer.
    So not sure how you'd do that with yours, but you really need to look into your bed level. My printer was a nightmare when i got it, untill i fought and fought and fought with the level.

    Next thing was changing filament, check out hobby king PLA its SUPER cheap and perfectly adequate to learn with. its like 12$ canadian, so its not an investment.
    Does the filament you're using have instructions for temp ranges? your initial temps to me seem off the chart. with my PLA i rock 210C and a print bed temp of about 60 i think.


    Just so you know though. I have succesfully printed against my glass bed with NOTHING.


    Aye, definitely speaking the truth there. I'm the same, I've been able to successfully print on all of the surfaces I've used, though I wouldn't change what I use now.
    But getting that bed levelled is your top priority. It's astonishing how a great printer can become a pile of horse shit just because one corner is a fraction of a millimetre out of place.
    Just like the man says, get a sheet of paper and adjust until you only just feel a little friction between the nozzle and the bed at several checkpoints, especially the four corners.
    Or if you're a bit OCD like me, get a set of feeler gauges and adjust to **Edit, I mean 0.10, not 0.01 thats what happens when you combine morphine and iPhones ** But papers perfectly fine, I only stopped using it because it seems no two makes are the exact same thickness and I'm getting better results now with the gauges.

    When I got my second printer it took me 2 days to get it dialled in perfectly. Patience is the key. And what I often do now is adjust by eye with a sample print. Get a box stl file and make it about 30% smaller than your build plate. Then set your slicer to print, say, 5 skirts. Watch the thickness of the line as it prints the skirts and you can easily tweak each point to get a nice even line.


    (Sorry for waffling on, morphines kicked in.)
    Last edited by Stwert; 08-06-2016 at 12:23 PM.

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