Anyone used Printbite surface ?

[Talon 3D]

I releveled the bed again before I started the new print. Cold and hot.
Nothing is sticking yet.
PLA at 195, bed 40 like I had dialed in before.
Going to relevel the bed again and try again.

Screenshot (143).jpg

[Talon 3D]

And yet another fail. Does not stick past a few layers.
Will try yet again to level the bed. It has to be it. The PrintBite is clean, level, installed right. I even used gloves installing it.

[curious aardvark]

okay - two (could be more lol) things that are obvious to me.

1) bed levelling. Printbite is only used hot - why are levelling a cold bed ?

2) the bed heat needs to be at least 60c for pla and most other filaments - never go lower, but for some things you need to go hotter. Always calibrate with bed and extruder at printing temps.
That said, I calibrate at 225 and that suits my printer for everything from 200-260.

2.5) print your pla at least at 205 - 210-215 is usually better.

3) calibrate tighter, that front bead you have is practically round. ie: almost no downward pressure on the bead at all. Now that's fine for flexible filaments and really good zero-warp filaments, but utterly useless for normal price range pla.

4) You can adjust z-level in the slicer, well you can in simplify 3d - nevber looked in anything else. I adjust downward pressure (z-level adjustment) for different filaments and different size models.

Printbite is like everything else - you need to get your settings right. But at the moment you're just not using enough heat :-)

[Talon 3D]

I had dialed in my PLA/PHA to 195 and 40 on the bed.
I leveled the bed cold and then heated bed and nozzles and leveled again. The reason for the cold level at first was due to adding the PrintBite I needed to adjust as it is thicker than the blue sticker.
Then I did the hot leveling. I always end with hot leveling. I have adjust and adjusted. I will tighten up even more on it though. I have been leveling using the leveling card QIDI sent. I will go back to paper.

Heating my PLA/PHA to 205 resulted in a melted mess. I dropped it back to 195 and heated the bed to 60 degrees and added a raft. So far it is sticking longer than other prints. I will know for sure in a few more mins the quality.

okay - two (could be more lol) things that are obvious to me.

1) bed levelling. Printbite is only used hot - why are levelling a cold bed ?

2) the bed heat needs to be at least 60c for pla and most other filaments - never go lower, but for some things you need to go hotter. Always calibrate with bed and extruder at printing temps.
That said, I calibrate at 225 and that suits my printer for everything from 200-260.

2.5) print your pla at least at 205 - 210-215 is usually better.

3) calibrate tighter, that front bead you have is practically round. ie: almost no downward pressure on the bead at all. Now that's fine for flexible filaments and really good zero-warp filaments, but utterly useless for normal price range pla.

4) You can adjust z-level in the slicer, well you can in simplify 3d - nevber looked in anything else. I adjust downward pressure (z-level adjustment) for different filaments and different size models.

Printbite is like everything else - you need to get your settings right. But at the moment you're just not using enough heat :-)

[Talon 3D]

I tightened up the leveling and adjusted temps again. Still failed.
I added a raft. Now it sticks.
Waste of filament for rafts but it is getting better. I have to dial my PLA/PHA setting back in now. Getting some sloppyness.
[IMG] [/IMG]

[Talon 3D]

Dialed the bed even tighter.
Set nozzles to 200, bed 60.
Raft.
Waiting for it to cool. Here are a couple pics.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

[curious aardvark]

you're not even close on the calibration to what I use.

The front bead should be pretty much just a flat strip. Yours still looks like a round bead, you should not need a raft. I haven't used a raft for anything since i stopped using abs. I've used a couple of brims over the last two years - but it's that small a number and never needed anything like that with the printbite.
that said I have yet to try a pla/pha blend - so it could be the pha that's causing the problems - might give you a little more shrinkage than i get with decent pla. But you're calibration is much much looser than anything I've ever used on any surface.

I use 90gsm paper and it's a fairly tight fit between the printhead and the bed.

Quite like the new pattern they've put on it - mine's just plain white.

[Talon 3D]

I like the pattern they have on it as well. Makes things easier to see on the OctoPi cam as well.
I have to tighten it up again. I was off the last 24 hrs or so and have not done anything. Been sick.
This last time the bead was flatter but not as tight as you are describing. I think if I go nice and tight it should help as you said. I will let you know how it goes in a bit.

you're not even close on the calibration to what I use.

The front bead should be pretty much just a flat strip. Yours still looks like a round bead, you should not need a raft. I haven't used a raft for anything since i stopped using abs. I've used a couple of brims over the last two years - but it's that small a number and never needed anything like that with the printbite.
that said I have yet to try a pla/pha blend - so it could be the pha that's causing the problems - might give you a little more shrinkage than i get with decent pla. But you're calibration is much much looser than anything I've ever used on any surface.

I use 90gsm paper and it's a fairly tight fit between the printhead and the bed.

Quite like the new pattern they've put on it - mine's just plain white.

[Talon 3D]

I have found I have to treat the PLA/PHA like ABS temp wise. I am running it at 220 ext, 90 bed. Test print was ok.
The calibration test was done at 210 ext, and 70 bed. Slight warping. With the temps hotter it should help. I also put the front door back on but left the top open. It is rather cold in the room.
[IMG] [/IMG]

[curious aardvark]

I'll have to get some of the pha blend to test.

Sounds like the same sort of performance i get with esun pet-g.
How fast are you printing your first layer ?
I tend to go back to 10% for the pet-g, whereas I can run the pla at 30% for the first layer.