I see I've ruffled some feathers... are you always so hostile?

Wasn't attacking you or anyone else. Reading the thread again you seem to value your personal experience over what F3D or anyone else knows. The link I provided is a good starting point if you're curious though.


Since you asked here's some specific examples:

The front bead should be pretty much just a flat strip
Not always necessary, especially with printbite and is recommended to not do that as it makes removal harder (strange you had removal issues). Even on other print surfaces like PEI this gives too much adhesion and moving parts will be welded together.

The bed heat needs to be at least 60c for pla and most other filaments - never go lower
False - some filaments need lower or even no heat on printbite.

print your pla at least at 205 - 210-215 is usually better
False - different brands/blends need different temps. I have a plain pla with MAX temp of 210 for example and prints great under 200.

I tend to go back to 10% for the pet-g, whereas I can run the pla at 30% for the first layer.
Printers have wildly different print speeds, a percentage is meaningless. F3D has a great reference sheet with specific speeds as a good starting point for testing.

And here's you (not) recommending only acetone twice:
Alcohol would work just as well I guess
if it stays shiny - it's fine to use on the rest.

Some of this is admittedly nit-picky but it's good to remember that people (especially those new to 3d printing) will take what you say quite literally.