10" Pegasus Build

[beerdart]

........................

[lakester]

I'm pretty impressed by the bridging at the top of the cube..., i.e., the cube appears to have had no infill...

[flatty_420]

I'm pretty impressed by the bridging at the top of the cube..., i.e., the cube appears to have had no infill...

The cubes are hollow. The first layer drooped down into the inside of the cube a bit but subsequent layers were fine.

[printbus]

Its interesting how the teeth marks disappear for some distance just prior to the notch cut into the filament. I would have expected to see the teeth marks continuing all the way to the notch. Otherwise, how was the filament being moved?

The hobbed bolt carving into the filament is something pretty much everybody runs into at some point, and people have identified all sorts of reasons for it happening on their machine. FWIW, Extrusion Problems is a post I've kept current with what people have found. Some of the info is specific to the Greg's Wade extruder on an i3v, but a lot of the info is generic. For me, it's typically been caused by filament with bulges in it that can't feed into the hot end or retraction settings being too aggressive on fine-detail objects.

[flatty_420]

Its interesting how the teeth marks disappear for some distance just prior to the notch cut into the filament. I would have expected to see the teeth marks continuing all the way to the notch. Otherwise, how was the filament being moved?

The hobbed bolt carving into the filament is something pretty much everybody runs into at some point, and people have identified all sorts of reasons for it happening on their machine. FWIW, Extrusion Problems is a post I've kept current with what people have found. Some of the info is specific to the Greg's Wade extruder on an i3v, but a lot of the info is generic. For me, it's typically been caused by filament with bulges in it that can't feed into the hot end or retraction settings being too aggressive on fine-detail objects.

The teeth marks disappeared just before the notch because the teeth of the hobbed gear were completely packed with filament debris. This happened last time I had the ABS loaded into the printer as well. Strangely enough, that does not happen with the PLA I have and I've printed a lot more with PLA so far. Both spools of filament I'm using are eSun from Makerfarm. Thanks for the link, I'll check that out.

[flatty_420]

The first thing I made other than the test cubes was a dryer knob for my poor wife who has been using a pair of pliers to turn on the dryer for many months now. It's one thing to be told what a 3d printer can do but a whole 'nother thing to actually hold a useful item that was just printed for you.... she was so happy and couldn't believe I made it on my printer.

[flatty_420]

I'm having an awful hard time getting ABS to not lift partway through the print on all but the smallest parts. Hairspray, extra hairspray, glue stick, none of them seem to have any effect on the problem. I really don't want to mess with ABS slurry.

I thought it may have been cold air currents coming in the room every time I went in to peek at the progress so I cranked the heat up in the tiny little office the printer is in and closed the door and stayed out until the print was done (to simulate an enclosure), but the same lifting took place.

I have tried a 5mm brim, tried adjusting bed heat temp up & down (90-115) tried lowering nozzle temp a bit (from 250 down to 230) but to no avail. I'm starting to wonder if it is the tiny little fan on the e3d v6 heatsink that is spraying errant air currents around on the print. Is it ok to reverse the fan so that the air is blowing away from the heatsink instead of onto it?

[Donziboy2]

I'm having an awful hard time getting ABS to not lift partway through the print on all but the smallest parts. Hairspray, extra hairspray, glue stick, none of them seem to have any effect on the problem. I really don't want to mess with ABS slurry.

I thought it may have been cold air currents coming in the room every time I went in to peek at the progress so I cranked the heat up in the tiny little office the printer is in and closed the door and stayed out until the print was done (to simulate an enclosure), but the same lifting took place.

I have tried a 5mm brim, tried adjusting bed heat temp up & down (90-115) tried lowering nozzle temp a bit (from 250 down to 230) but to no avail. I'm starting to wonder if it is the tiny little fan on the e3d v6 heatsink that is spraying errant air currents around on the print. Is it ok to reverse the fan so that the air is blowing away from the heatsink instead of onto it?

ABS seems to be the hardest material to get right sometimes, I have had some prints come out flawless and then larger prints just refuse to stay stuck. I am still working on getting ABS to behave. A few things have helped.

Starting with a fresh build plate with a fresh layer of Gluestick or tape. both tape and gluestick loose there holding power after a few prints.
Getting the bed Z height set, if its to high the first layer will not stick.
A brim sometimes helps.
Slow down the print speed, I have been playing with print speed and that seems to help allot.
Reduce infill when possible, more plastic means more warping from cooling.

My last print was a large shroud for a heatsink(100*69mm)/fan(92mm) combo, the print was pretty large and i had a brim, it still managed to pull up all 4 corners but the center stayed stuck, even with all the warping it was a SOB to pull off the plate.

[flatty_420]

ABS seems to be the hardest material to get right sometimes, I have had some prints come out flawless and then larger prints just refuse to stay stuck. I am still working on getting ABS to behave. A few things have helped.

Starting with a fresh build plate with a fresh layer of Gluestick or tape. both tape and gluestick loose there holding power after a few prints.
Getting the bed Z height set, if its to high the first layer will not stick.
A brim sometimes helps.
Slow down the print speed, I have been playing with print speed and that seems to help allot.
Reduce infill when possible, more plastic means more warping from cooling.

My last print was a large shroud for a heatsink(100*69mm)/fan(92mm) combo, the print was pretty large and i had a brim, it still managed to pull up all 4 corners but the center stayed stuck, even with all the warping it was a SOB to pull off the plate.

The bed height is set so I can shove (won't easily slide in... needs a push) a piece of paper in between bed and nozzle. I am using cheap dollar store glue stick, maybe I should go buy a good quality glue stick instead. I have tried a 5mm brim and it seemed to help a tiny bit but ultimately the part still lifted.

I am going to try a raft next and I will slow down the print speed as per your suggestion and see what that does for me. I would like to reverse the direction of the e3d heatsink fan but worried about not providing enough cooling for it so hopefully somebody who knows can chime in with some info about that.

[printbus]

Yeah, a lot of people have said the MakerFarm spool holder has been at least a major contributor. I didn't mention having issues with it because I never used it, or didn't use it longer than I had to.

FYI - someone suggested one of the unused wood parts shown in post #93 is an alternate spool mount, but it still relies on the poor design of having the spool bounce along over a fixed wood edge. Not sure where you'd mount that on a Pegasus without losing a lot of print volume. Perhaps on the rear side somehow. FOLLOWUP COMMENT: That alternate spool mount is used on the 12-inch Pegasus that utilizes a box frame around the printer.

Moderator RobH2 used to jump in and discourage people from mounting a spool high up on a printer, arguing that any momentum it picks up as the printer frame vibrates or wobbles can exasperate print quality issues. Just sharing what others have said before.