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  1. #121
    Technologist
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    Jan 2016
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    121
    Well the male/female socket looked pretty good, but couldn't be put together, the female end broke when I tried to put them together.

  2. #122
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    121
    I think I found the issue, I forgot to calibrate the X/Y axis, so it was elongated. I ran through the calibration process on the galvo and aligned everything MUCH better. It was computer generated before based on everything being symmetric.

    I may have found another issue, either my power supply is bad or the supply they shipped is on the verge of being powerful enough. It is a 2.7amp supply @ 24v, and maybe the BBB wireless is using a bit more power than the BBB (non-wireless), but I seem to crash periodically. Thankfully never during a print, but I'm going to see about upgrading my power supply.

  3. #123
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    121
    Today my supply is working better. I'm working on making a few gifts for my daughter for the holidays. She loves sharks so I picked out a few things from thingiverse and am trying to print them. So far I did a shark. I'm not using supports, so I ran into an issue that to secure the print to the build plate I run the laser at 8x time for the first 8 layers. That's a bit too conservative and I think I'm going to start trying to cut that down. I have the shark comb in my UV box, when it comes out I'll take a picture of it. You'll be able to see the over exposure from the first few layers. I'll also keep notes posted for each print. Some of them I used supports and some I did not. I didn't like the supports I was seeing in slic3r and that is what I'm currently using, for better or worse.

    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/v4sj9ecdb...k%20gifts?dl=0

  4. #124
    Technologist
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    Jan 2016
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    121
    I put a new power supply on my printer and the Z axis runs very differently, the good news however is that I can just unplug the power cord from the outlet and not also the printer, then plug into the outlet, then into the printer as my old one did. I wonder if the zaxis will end up working differently for different power supplies. Could also be the reason I was having issues previously. May likely do some improvement on the x-axis in the future as well.

    Note: the calibration file has tuning values for the zaxis, I'll tweak them this evening after this print completes. Hopefully if I can reinvent the zaxis code it won't vary from machine to machine or power supply to power supply, or whatever the issue might be that I'm having.
    Last edited by doobie; 12-22-2016 at 04:40 PM.

  5. #125
    Quote Originally Posted by doobie View Post
    I put a new power supply on my printer and the Z axis runs very differently, the good news however is that I can just unplug the power cord from the outlet and not also the printer, then plug into the outlet, then into the printer as my old one did. I wonder if the zaxis will end up working differently for different power supplies. Could also be the reason I was having issues previously. May likely do some improvement on the x-axis in the future as well.

    Note: the calibration file has tuning values for the zaxis, I'll tweak them this evening after this print completes. Hopefully if I can reinvent the zaxis code it won't vary from machine to machine or power supply to power supply, or whatever the issue might be that I'm having.
    Maybe you could add into the software a user input variable so it could be tweaked via software input

  6. #126
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    121
    Quote Originally Posted by satgod View Post
    Maybe you could add into the software a user input variable so it could be tweaked via software input
    There is a calibration hook for it, I used it a bit and it sounded a little better, but I didn't validate it moved well.

  7. #127
    Technologist
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    Jan 2016
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    121
    Most everything without supports prints nicely, anything with supports fails. I either need to figure out supports in slic3r or try a new slicing tool.

  8. #128
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    270
    meshmixer (free) will add supports to an STL file, independently of the slicer

  9. #129
    Technologist
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    Jan 2016
    Posts
    121
    Thanks I used that and was able to print the flying shark finally. I was also reading other forums that recommended mesh mixer. The other forums also used Cura, but I liked slic3r because it could run on the BBB.

    I have been having issues with the wireless BBB black and am thinking of switching back to the wired version.

    I passed the flying shark picture online unfortunately I'm not a photographer so my pictures don't do justice to the prints. They aren't perfect but I think pretty good.

  10. #130
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    121
    Things seem to work pretty nicely on the prints I made for my daughter for the holidays. I am seeing some issues where it appears a print after a period breaks off the build plate and sticks to the VAT. I've seen this before many times, but I've never found a solution. I've seen it in cavities without air relief (it likely makes a vacuum) as well as prints that are solid as they print and the newly printed layers are larger than the top layer on the VAT. I've tried a number of things to fix this, but so far I haven't found a robust solution.

    I started using meshmixer to add supports instead of using slic3r; which I have not had success with supports yet. I've found it does good for the raft/brim layers, but other than that it didn't do a good job for supports.

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