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  1. #1
    Technician
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    image.jpgIf anyone's curious. I'm sure you can tell which one is the better one. Same layer height.

  2. #2
    Technician
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    Any tips on getting my prints to stick better now that I can't use my bed for the whole print? Or possibly a better replacement for the relay? Or a fix for the bed? I'm researching it now but figured I'd ask. Thanks.

  3. #3
    I quit using 70C for my bed temp with PLA due to adhesion issues.

    Currently using 50C and hairspray with pretty good results.

    -moyes

  4. #4
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    211
    Looks like bed warping issues to me, try a print with blue tape and the heat bed off and see if it looks better.

    If it does you need to get an aluminum bed if you haven't already and get a solid state relay and setup PID control on your heat bed. There is a thread somewhere in the forums that I did when I setup PID on my heatbed that has some info on how to do it.


    "EDIT" I somehow replied to a cached version of this thread before you realized it was your bed as I mention above"

  5. #5
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    211
    Here is what I did to fix my bed warping and Z banding.


    http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ighlight=fixed

  6. #6
    Engineer clough42's Avatar
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    May 2014
    Location
    Meridian, ID
    Posts
    418
    I've never succeeded with a hot bed and PLA. I've had my best success with blue tape and a cold bed. Cleaning the tape with alcohol or acetone caused the print to bond permanently to the tape. It worked great for me just on the tape, skin oil and all.

    James

  7. #7
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    211
    Quote Originally Posted by clough42 View Post
    I've never succeeded with a hot bed and PLA. I've had my best success with blue tape and a cold bed. Cleaning the tape with alcohol or acetone caused the print to bond permanently to the tape. It worked great for me just on the tape, skin oil and all.

    James

    On the makerfarm for PLA I use glue stick and keep the bed at around 60°C and have good adhesion, on the Daughters Da'vinci JR without a heated bed I use blue painters tape and as you mention if I clean it with alcohol the parts can't be removed from the tape without pulling the tape off the bed surface.

    What I don't like about the painters tape is the rough texture of the printed surface that was in contact with the tape. The other issue with tape is that sometimes the part will still warp and pull the tape away from the glass print surface even though the PLA is still stuck to the tape.

    For me glue stick and heat seems to work the best

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by clough42 View Post
    I've never succeeded with a hot bed and PLA. I've had my best success with blue tape and a cold bed. Cleaning the tape with alcohol or acetone caused the print to bond permanently to the tape. It worked great for me just on the tape, skin oil and all.

    James
    I have always used hot bed (70C) with PLA and its been brilliant. But with the hair spray tip. You are the pro however :-). The hair spray wears off after a couple of prints so needs to be reapplied. It works amazingly well.

  9. #9
    Technician
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    50
    Thanks for all the replies. I'll definetly be moving to blue painters tape for the time being it looks like. And Chadd, it was actually your thread that gave me the answer. Thanks! I'll be ordering a solid state relay soon. If I have these issues with PLA and a heated bed can I assume I will have them with ABS as well? If so hopefully a SSR will solve that. I'll probably build am enclosure while I'm at it.

  10. #10
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    211
    Quote Originally Posted by pjfossee View Post
    Thanks for all the replies. I'll definetly be moving to blue painters tape for the time being it looks like. And Chadd, it was actually your thread that gave me the answer. Thanks! I'll be ordering a solid state relay soon. If I have these issues with PLA and a heated bed can I assume I will have them with ABS as well? If so hopefully a SSR will solve that. I'll probably build am enclosure while I'm at it.
    The higher the bed temp the worse the warping will be because the heat bed has to kick on and off so much, so yes you will likely have more issues with ABS than PLA. But both will look like crap until you get the bed warping taken care of.

    Once you get it fixed the difference is literally unbelievable, it not only fixes appearance but also will fix things like layer delamination, first layer issues, nozzle dragging, strings, etc etc..

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