Differences between ABS and PLA? Which is best?

[curious aardvark]

it's not nearly as difficult as some of the specialty PLA's (from what I've been reading).

don't know where you're doing your reading - but I've tried most of the weird and wonderful filaments out there and they ALL stick to gluestick, none of them warp and they all print just as easily as decent pla.

Most of them don't need heated buildplate - none of them need a heated enclosure. And because you don't need rafts and prints rarely fail - even the expensive ones are actually pretty cost effective. As long as you design and print properly :-)

I did do a fair bit of printing with abs, before, I finally tried pla and realised everything I'd heard, was just so much nonsense.

Don't have heated enclosure, always used a raft. Apart from the odd crack and ocasional issues getting the raft off after a long print - it printed okay.
But just okay - you needed to adjust for shrinkage, and that was annoying - don't need to do that with pla.
Hell I even printed a secret heart box with abs.

But the smell when it's printing is unpleasant, acetone is not good for you and my pla prints - so far - have been stronger, less brittle, stiffer and just all round better parts.

I don't print figurines or pretty models. Most of my prints are original designs, either relacing a broken widget or making something original for a specific purpose. So having something look shiny and smooth - is not any part of my desing brief :-)

That said - un processed pla prints look much better than un processed abs prints. Abs looks kinda dull and rough. pla tends to be a bit shinier and smoother looking.

[ServiceXp]

Aardvark,
Most of my prints are also functional parts, so in most cases surface perfection is not needed. So what PLA based material, (you have or are using) that is superior to ABS do you recommend? Please be specific as I want to purchase and try.

I'm open to trying replacement materials for ABS, but since I have never had any problems printing with ABS that were not my own mistakes, I just haven't had the need to try the PLA alternatives.

[Sebastian Finke]

Note that all industrial/pro printers have enclosed chambers and by doing so you can tap into the properties of ABS if required.

Again, a simple thing as enclosing and heating the print chamber will sort out all ABS issues. Does this make ABS better? These two very different with very different properties. You should use/do whatever is required for the job.

[curious aardvark]

You know, thinking about it I started with abs. Took a while to get a decent print - think it was a round a week before I had the first 100% succesful print.
And while it was a PITA at the time, it definitely taught me a helluva lot mkore about my printer and 3d printing than I'd have learned if I'd started with pla and everything has just worked from day one :-)

So I'll give abs another use - great for teaching you - albeit frustrating at the time - how to properly use your printer :-)

@servicexp
I prefer to use reprappertech pla. Never had any issues with it and parts I've made that broke with abs don't break with it.
Also anything by polymaker is excellent stuff.
Try to print as hot as you can - as this will give you much better layer bonding. I pretty much now default to 210 for most pla. Slightly lower for black and try to avoid printing in white as much as possible.
I find the colourant in white makes it brittle - had the same with abs in that it cracked a lot more than other colours.

Best filament I've used is reprappertech 'wood'. It's a semi transparent brown/bronzy colour. And just a fabulous filament all round. Unless I need a specific colour I'll use that for pretty much everything.

Flexible wise - polymaker polyflex is hands down my favourite. Not as stretchy as ninjaflex - but prints just like normal pla - just a wee bit hotter.
Fantastic stuff. And a lot cheaper than ninjaflex as well :-)

My biggest issue with abs was the shrinkage. I like my cad models to print the size I program them to be - rather than smaller. :-)
And not having to go near acetone is also a big bonus and the lack of burning plastic smell in the workshop.

A lot of difference can be made in the orientation of a print. I made some little square 'u' shaped clips. Initialy printed them with the bas down and the arms pointing up.
Pla ones broke very easily where they jolined the base - not alayer bonding issue - that was simply the weakest mechanical point.
Ended up using pet at the same orientation and they worked much better.

Then had a brainwave and printed them laying down, this completely removed the mechanical weakness as the entire outline was one piece.
The pla ones are now more flexible, stiffer and stronger than the pet ones. And they look better as well and print quicker :-)

So it's not only what plastic you use - but how you use it as well and how you design and print your designs.

[ServiceXp]

You know, thinking about it I started with abs. Took a while to get a decent print - think it was a round a week before I had the first 100% succesful print.
And while it was a PITA at the time, it definitely taught me a helluva lot mkore about my printer and 3d printing than I'd have learned if I'd started with pla and everything has just worked from day one :-)

So I'll give abs another use - great for teaching you - albeit frustrating at the time - how to properly use your printer :-)

@servicexp
I prefer to use reprappertech pla. Never had any issues with it and parts I've made that broke with abs don't break with it.
Also anything by polymaker is excellent stuff.
Try to print as hot as you can - as this will give you much better layer bonding. I pretty much now default to 210 for most pla. Slightly lower for black and try to avoid printing in white as much as possible.
I find the colourant in white makes it brittle - had the same with abs in that it cracked a lot more than other colours.

Best filament I've used is reprappertech 'wood'. It's a semi transparent brown/bronzy colour. And just a fabulous filament all round. Unless I need a specific colour I'll use that for pretty much everything.

Flexible wise - polymaker polyflex is hands down my favourite. Not as stretchy as ninjaflex - but prints just like normal pla - just a wee bit hotter.
Fantastic stuff. And a lot cheaper than ninjaflex as well :-)

My biggest issue with abs was the shrinkage. I like my cad models to print the size I program them to be - rather than smaller. :-)
And not having to go near acetone is also a big bonus and the lack of burning plastic smell in the workshop.

A lot of difference can be made in the orientation of a print. I made some little square 'u' shaped clips. Initialy printed them with the bas down and the arms pointing up.
Pla ones broke very easily where they jolined the base - not alayer bonding issue - that was simply the weakest mechanical point.
Ended up using pet at the same orientation and they worked much better.

Then had a brainwave and printed them laying down, this completely removed the mechanical weakness as the entire outline was one piece.
The pla ones are now more flexible, stiffer and stronger than the pet ones. And they look better as well and print quicker :-)

So it's not only what plastic you use - but how you use it as well and how you design and print your designs.

Thanks for the information, I should have asked were are you located? I don't see any US option for reprappertech? I see some on Amazon for Polymaker PolyMax and PolyPlus along with some flex versions. So I may start there, maybe with the PolyMax... I've been learning about the effects of print orientation, and model design have on the stability of the part. It's been quite remarkable to see just how important that one change (print orientation) can be.

[Sebastian Finke]

Hope to be able to try out some these others brands soon. All we get here is Makerbot, eSun and Wanhoa filaments.

[EagleSeven]

Here's a good video about difference in ABS and PLA:

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...45AC56262E4F06

[oklok]

The easiest way to see which one is the best is to buy one of each to test it out. After print, try break it, the result will be direct!

[jeffmorris]

I can't decide which filament is best. Trying to read reviews of filaments in Amazon confused me. For example, most people say that "Brand A" is good but some people say that "Brand A" is junk.

[3dex ltd]

Yes it is amazing how changing the smallest of parameters can have a huge affect on the print.