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  1. #1
    Engineer
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    752
    davo, sandpaper on the plate is a new one. thats interesting. what kind of grit are we talking? 320-400grit? coarser.....finer?


    to the op, nylon can be tricky for larger prints. it does shrink alot so it loves to warp. currently i use garolite as recommended by taulman. so far its been hit or mis. onle time it will bond so hard that the garolite come off with the nylon and i can print the same part again right after with the same settings and it will be peeling off the bed like i waxed it. as for the settings i run pretty much what davo said. the only thing that is odd with nylon is you usually need retraction and ooze control settings that are a bit on the extreme side. i think i am at about 3.5mm for retraction and 2-3mm of coasting along with a slight negative restart distance. i can get my prints to come out super clean if i can get them to stay stuck consistently.
    Last edited by jimc; 02-15-2014 at 10:00 PM.

  2. #2
    Student
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    14
    jimc..... I think I will try Davo's sandpaper trick first as I have heard it is pretty much hit or miss with garolite plate. I think I can get 220 grit sandpaper with peel & stick adhesive on the back and lay on my glass plate. It's sounds like a great idea to try.

    I noticed Taulman recommended a higher 245° C extruder temperature for nylon 618. I thought nylon has a higher melting point than ABS. Since posting, I found this on Taulman site
    http://taulman3d.com/618-features.html

    And this on Thingiverse site
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34801/#instructions

    Are we talking about a different type of nylon? ..maybe nylon 645? Have you tried that setting with success or is that not a good idea?

    Also, thank you for your advice on the retraction settings.

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