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Thread: 12" I3V Build

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  1. #1
    Technician
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
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    73
    And I just realized that my Traxxas Slash RC uses 5x8x0.5 teflon washers in the wheel hubs. So maybe just adding one of those to the washer that's there will solve my issues. If not, 2 or 3 of the teflon ones likely will. A package will be a couple bucks at any place that carries Traxxas parts.

  2. #2
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Highlands Ranch, Colorado USA
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    1,437
    Add printbus on Thingiverse
    Interesting approach for the insulator. You could probably market that... I'd make up another one, without any of the holes and maybe oversized a bit, for use as a cover insulator over the glass. Placing the additional one above the glass when heating should help the bed heat up faster and reach a more uniform temperature. Placing it above the glass when the printer isn't in use would help protect the glass from dust, finger oil if you have nosy people around, and damage should something fall onto the glass.

    How the hot end fits into the extruder has came up before, at least with the hexagon hot end. IMO, the need to do something may depend on how well your mounting plate fits the U-channel in the hot end. If the plate grabs the channel pretty well, there's likely no issue. Instead of sanding down the extruder for a better fit, a more common solution is to shim up the hot end. I used to add multiple layers of kapton tape with a small hole for the filament cut into the kapton. Once you're printing, there's at least one printable shim design out there somewhere specifically for use in that space between the hot end and the extruder.

    I resolved that gap, along with numerous other nuances I saw with the extruder parts, in my Greg's Wade suite redux available on Thingiverse.

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