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  1. #11
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Brummen, Netherlands
    Posts
    265
    Is that a Buildtak bed (PEI)?

  2. #12
    Yes, it is the default bed that came with the M3D.

    Also, this works fine for the Onyx black filament, but not the Pearl White. Is there a setting that I should alter for the white?
    Last edited by garitheous; 01-02-2016 at 05:43 PM.

  3. #13
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Brummen, Netherlands
    Posts
    265
    My experiences with buildtak are very poor. But I have heard that the trick is to get the (first-layer) gap between the nozzle and the buildtak just right for a particular filament. Too small and you can't get the part off without destroying the buildtak, too large and it won't hold at all. As with Goldilocks it has to be 'just right'. But again, that is what I heard. After ruining two sheets with parts that would not come off without tearing the stuff, I went to glass and hairspray and never looked back. You could try to reduce the gap by 0.05-0.10 mm and see if that helps?

  4. #14
    I've always had trouble with the M3D Pearl White PLA and never was able to get a 'good' print with it. Others in their support forum report the same/sim issues.

  5. #15
    Technician Duck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    91
    The buildtak is pretty but it doesn't really work well at all, I've found. The blue painter's tape gives better results but still pulls up (often lifting the tape off the buildtak!).

    IMG_9563.JPG

  6. #16
    Printing with PLA or ABS?
    Maybe try cranking the heat down a bit see if that helps with the blue tape pulling up.

  7. #17
    I just this week got mine up and running and have made two prints. I too had the problem of the print not sticking to the bed or raft (my first one I used a raft, not knowing that it wasn't necessary. The raft would come loose and of course mess up the print so I finally taped the corners down and it worked. I used the honey clear ABS for that print and it required a lot of cleaning up afterward but I am pretty happy with the print. Did not use the slowest or best resolution as it was a trial run. I then learned I did not need to use a raft but didn't have any glue stick. Learned about using blue mask tape too late for this one. I did a flat design of a dragon head, this time using deep crimson PLA and I too had some problem with delamination, pretty much as did garitheous did. I finally watched it printing and when the plastic started to come loose I held it down while the machine played more material. I had to do this a number of times until the first layer was done but afterward it mostly worked okay and I got a completed print. I was not particularly happy with the red PLA as it skipped a few times and as I was doing the finish work on it the base layer totally delaminated in bits. I now believe it was meant to d that. The piece required a lot of trimming for which I used an xacto knife, a Dremel tool and even a fingernail clipper! If anyone has suggestions on cleaning up a print I would love to know what you do.
    IMG_1758.jpgIMG_1765.jpg The first is the item as it came off the printer and the 2nd one is mostly cleaned up. A lot of work!

    I am wondering if those of you with experience have a preference for PLA or ABS on the M3D printer? Also is it better to feed the plastic ink from the bottom or from outside the printer? Will higher res and longer print times give me a much smoother print with less cleaning up? I want to design and make miniature furniture and other items.

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by chaotic1 View Post
    I am wondering if those of you with experience have a preference for PLA or ABS on the M3D printer? Also is it better to feed the plastic ink from the bottom or from outside the printer? Will higher res and longer print times give me a much smoother print with less cleaning up? I want to design and make miniature furniture and other items.
    - Getting good (quality, consistent) prints with ABS on M3D Micro is very difficult to achieve. The lack of a heated bed makes printing ABS problematic.
    - Use the external filament feed method (print one of the external spool holders for the Micro from thingiverse). The internal feed method often causes tension (pull) on the print head and results in layer shifting / failed print.
    - From my experience, medium fill / medium quality gives the best results on the Micro.

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