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  1. #1
    Engineer-in-Training
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    What plastic for Printer Parts

    I want to change out a lot of parts in my printer for 3D printed parts. Right now I only have PLA but I want to buy something better suited for the part.

    I have been reading and I think PETG is a good choice. Is this a good choice or what would you choose? These parts would be near the hotend for cooling and gears for the belts so they will experience heat and stress.

  2. #2
    Engineer-in-Training ssayer's Avatar
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    PETG is a good choice...

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by BLKKROW View Post
    I want to change out a lot of parts in my printer for 3D printed parts.
    Why? Curious...


  4. #4
    Engineer-in-Training
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    The design in many aspects is basic from Makerfarm. I am looking to increase the details of my prints which means changing the X axis where the belts are mounted and changing a few more things.

  5. #5
    Then I would make an alternative suggestion: Have your new parts machined from aluminium. You will benefit from the rigidity of metal parts over printed plastic parts.


  6. #6
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Feb 2015
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    I am curious what changes you would make. I see there may be room for improvement on the z as well. For example, the v slot wheels on my z don't all spin when the z is moving up and down. I can freely spin the inside wheels. Also, I'd like to firm up the z towers a bit. I see some resonance waves in the side walls which I think is from the towers rocking.

    Building the the parts first from ABS or PETG is a good way to prototype. I have used ABS with good results.

  7. #7
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Add printbus on Thingiverse
    Quote Originally Posted by tsteever View Post
    ... For example, the v slot wheels on my z don't all spin when the z is moving up and down. I can freely spin the inside wheels.
    This indicates to me that you did not have the left x-motor and right hand x-idler brackets properly adjusted to the vertical rails and the two brackets level with each other BEFORE you tightened up the horizontal rails to the end brackets.

    EDIT: ...regardless of whether or not the build guide was clear on doing this. It certainly wasn't mentioned in the April 2014 build guide that I used.

    EDIT #2: With the horizontal rails loose on the x-motor and x-idler brackets, adjust each of the x-axis brackets to their respective vertical rails. Then level the two x-brackets using the method of your choice. I used a long metal ruler as a straightedge across the top of the two brackets. Others have adjusted for something like equal distance between the bottom of the brackets and the tops of the z-motor mounts. Then, and only then, tighten the horizontal rails to the x-motor and x-idler brackets. Tightening the eight M5 bolts on the horizontal rails will likely torque the x-axis assembly out of alignment, so some readjustment or pre-tensioning in the opposite direction may be necessary.
    Last edited by printbus; 10-29-2015 at 03:01 AM.

  8. #8
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Feb 2015
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    Thanks printbus, yes it is finicky. There wasn't anything in the guide about this. I did do it as you mentioned on my initial build, without the leveling step. I noticed the freely spinning wheel and redid it buy loosening the x brackets and then adjusting the cam wheels, then leveling and tightening it up. I need to do it again I guess and take a bit more time. I really like how the MTW Mendalmax 3 is put together. Their x-axis and extruder mount system is very robust and makes adding dual extruders effortless. I see many correlations to the new pegasus printer and the MM3.

    I would look for inspiration there if making changes. I have seen some pretty amazing prints from those. It has taken me many hours of tinkering and tweaking to even come close to the results a colleague is getting from his MM3.

  9. #9
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Jul 2014
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    I received my roll of Hatchback 1.75mm PETG in white, but I am printing a series of parts that I am selling. So I will finish that first before fiddling with PETG.

  10. #10
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Jun 2014
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    Aluminum is an interesting option. Maybe someone will start selling them. I guess it would need to be a hollow frame to keep the weight down.

    Mine are currently PLA, but I want to make them PETG. However in either case, if the extruder fan breaks, the heat might go up and melt something. At least PETG will last a bit longer, but aluminum would be great here.

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