I need some serious help

[Nickschaos81]

Mine actually uses a limit switch and the extruder as the probe, either way I have not noticed a difference when using auto level.

The hot end I'm looking at is thisAll Metal long-distance J-head hotend JHEAD for 3D Printer bowden extruder RepRap MakerBot Kossel Deltahttp://www.aliexpress.com/item/Geeetech-All-Metal-long-distance-J-head-hotend-JHEAD-for-3D-Printer-bowden-extruder-RepRap-MakerBot/1849034687.html
(from AliExpress Android) you think this will work

[LuckyImperial]

I would steer clear of Geetech. Here's a great hotend for the price:


Signswise Assembled J-head Hotend 0.4mm Nozzle Printer Head for 1.75mm Filaments 3d Pinter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SWLMWDM..._Qb8hwb5S84Y8K

As for calibration, it's not as difficult as people say. It's just impossible to get PERFECT haha. Thermal fluctuations throughout the day effect my Z height, which I chase all the time with my delta.

It's funny, I had the exact same hot end clogging issue when I got my delta printer. I fought and fought trying to clear it and then just broke down and bought that signwise hot end. So much better.

The truth is that most hot ends these days are just E3D clones. They are typically 3 pieces that thread together and it's important to snug everything up on the first heat up since everything expands so much. Be careful though because the aluminum will strip or even break if you try to go too tight. The three piece hot ends are much easier to clean over a compression fitted jhead.