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  1. #1

    Corners lifting after first few layers

    I don't know what else to call it. It doesn't look like the corners are lifting of the blue build sheet, it looks like there is too much material is being extruded only at the corners. The layers at the corners curl up. ABS at 220, plate at 110, 1.7mm filament diameter, replicator 4G, .3 layer height, 100% fill, 2 shells, no raft, feederate 200....out of the box settings.

    update: Still does it at half the above federate and 50% fill

  2. #2
    Technician
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    91
    Feedrate is how fast the head moves in mm/s (in the gcode mm/min). Packing density and filament diameter determine flow rate (how much plastic gets pushed).

    For feedrate you want to start with 40mm/sec and then go up from there.

    You should give up on RepG. Nobody has done anything with it since 2012. It's abandon ware. Sebastien will tell you to use Makerbot Desktop. Many others will tell you to buy Simplify3d. And others will point you at the 3duniverse.org guide for slic3r on a flashforge.

  3. #3
    Just to be clear, I use Makerware because I have it fine-tuned to perfection and I cannot see any reason to purchase Simplify 3D. I am not anti-S3D.

    To your problem: I'm assuming your printer isn't enclosed? It should be. ABS needs a warm print cabin without any draughts so you need to cover the front and top and also the handles, the opening in the spool holders and any other openings. Any cold air coming into the cabin will cause the warping you see.


  4. #4
    Technician
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    Feb 2015
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    91
    Yeah, I haven't bought S3D either. Similar reason. I've got other stuff working for me. Hope you didn't mind the teasing. :-)

  5. #5
    Nah mate.


  6. #6
    Reporting in as requested!

    Wow, such a difference with small changes in 3 of a whole bunch a variables! Bed lowered to 95C from 110, nozzle raised from 220 to 230, x3g instead of s3g output. Still used RepG.

    Pagoda Corners GONE! Still some layer deformation in the corners, will try to post a pic later

    Downloaded Slic3r and played with it, but it doesn’t output x3g, unless you post process with GPX, which hasn’t had an update since 2013 (?)

    Now I’d like to ask about something really nerdy...variable weighing, ie which variables have the greatest (positive) effect, for example, I don’t have any idea which change from above gave the biggest improvement, was it the bed temp or nozzle temp. I wish I had time to create a Kaizen 6 sigma fishbone integral elucidation experiment chart in 1024 colors, but I have a day job, so I’ll have to stick to picking the brains of those who have BTDT.

    Thanks a Gallon!

    KK

    PS Flashforge Creator, Fully enclosed.

  7. #7
    Technician
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    Feb 2015
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    91
    Quote Originally Posted by kaptnknemo View Post
    Reporting in as requested!

    Downloaded Slic3r and played with it, but it doesn’t output x3g, unless you post process with GPX, which hasn’t had an update since 2013 (?)
    Actually, I have been updating it quite a bit lately. Added a GUI and an installer even and if you're on windows added a right click menu to the windows explorer on gcode files so you can convert any gcode into x3g. Main thing left is to get the start gcode and the settings right (slic3r's defaults are too fast). 3duniverse.org has a guide for using slic3r with a flashforge.

    Here's the link to GpxUi (it installs GPX along with it): https://markwal.github.io/GpxUi (case sensitive)

  8. #8
    Cool will give it a try

  9. #9
    More Details!

    The bottom 10(ish) layers are still wiggly and measure larger than the top 20 layers 20.8mm vs 20.3mm in x and 20.5 vs 20.1 in y. All of the change is happening in the first 10 layers
    (ie layers 10 through 33 look perfect). The wigglyness is across the entire vertical face, not just the corners. Imagine a stack of 33 pieces of thick paper, with the first
    10 pieces being a bit crinkled and the last 23 being perfectly flat. Wish I could take a good picture, but the cellphone camera just isn’t made for this closeup stuff.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by kaptnknemo View Post
    More Details!

    The bottom 10(ish) layers are still wiggly and measure larger than the top 20 layers 20.8mm vs 20.3mm in x and 20.5 vs 20.1 in y. All of the change is happening in the first 10 layers
    (ie layers 10 through 33 look perfect). The wigglyness is across the entire vertical face, not just the corners. Imagine a stack of 33 pieces of thick paper, with the first
    10 pieces being a bit crinkled and the last 23 being perfectly flat. Wish I could take a good picture, but the cellphone camera just isn’t made for this closeup stuff.
    Have you calibrated your extruder? The fact that the top and bottom layers are different could be a result of poor/non calibration.


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