Another Corner Curling Up Issue?

[CoffeeCup]

Looking around online I saw that 140 degrees Fahrenheit is an optimal tempature inside an enclosure when printing with ABS. That is ABS I'm printing with. I built the enclosure because I was having warping and layer adhesion issues on a large about 6" x 6" build. While running the temp inside the enclosure gets up around 110 max. I have a filament bulb in the back adding heat I can turn that off. Also the front and rear plexiglass pieces are removable so I will trying lowering the temp a bit when I get home today.

*EDIT** Hot end is at 250c and heated bed at 110c. The fan on the hot end fan is blowing from the front towards the back

[Carrot_or_Stick]

Looking around online I saw that 140 degrees Fahrenheit is an optimal tempature inside an enclosure when printing with ABS. That is ABS I'm printing with. I built the enclosure because I was having warping and layer adhesion issues on a large about 6" x 6" build. While running the temp inside the enclosure gets up around 110 max. I have a filament bulb in the back adding heat I can turn that off. Also the front and rear plexiglass pieces are removable so I will trying lowering the temp a bit when I get home today.

140 seems high to me. My last ABS print (Hot-end: 230c / Bed: 100c) in my newly finished enclosure had the temp reach just shy of 90 degrees Fahrenheit and the print came out great. Try around the 100 mark to see if that helps.

[printbus]

... I built the enclosure because I was having warping and layer adhesion issues on a large about 6" x 6" build...
...The fan on the hot end fan is blowing from the front towards the back

I interpret this to mean the fan is "pushing" air onto the hot end heatsink, which would be consistent with what MakerFarm and e3d both tell you to do. The boxed-in bottom of the i3/i3v X-carriage leaves nowhere for the fan airflow to go except back down onto the print. For ABS, that has led to warping/adhesion problems for at least some people. Flipping the fan around so it pulls air up from the print area, through the heatsink, and exhausting it out the fan helps.

[CoffeeCup]

I interpret this to mean the fan is "pushing" air onto the hot end heatsink, which would be consistent with what MakerFarm and e3d both tell you to do. The boxed-in bottom of the i3/i3v X-carriage leaves nowhere for the fan airflow to go except back down onto the print. For ABS, that has led to warping/adhesion problems for at least some people. Flipping the fan around so it pulls air up from the print area, through the heatsink, and exhausting it out the fan helps.

Yes that's right it's pushing air through the hot end sink and into the boxed end bottom of the x-carriage. Thanks for that bit of info I'll keep it in mind going forward and thanks to everybody else for the input as well. The second print with light off plus front & rear plexi walls removed repeated the good results. The inside of the enclosure stayed at 91 degrees fahrenheit. I wonder why I kept seeing such high recommended enclosure temps for ABS? 140 degrees fahrenheit. Perhaps they had a lower hot end and bed temp than my 250c/110c.

Next will be to see how well this setup performs on my large 6"x6" print. This will have to wait until my next day off so I can devote the entire day to it.