Any Success with Resin Printers

[Brumbaer]

The nice thing about the B9 resin is that you can invest it in a mold, burn it out and cast metal into the resultant void. If strength's important to you, have them cast in bronze. Considering the size of your parts, it shouldn't cost too much.

Andrew Werby
www.computersculpture.com

HellobAndrew,
despite being true, the argument doesn't count fot the comparison of printing technologies, as it adds an additional time and money consuming step not inherent to the technology.

it's like saying a small build space is no disadvantage, because you can divide a large model into smaller parts. Or like saying that you can increase the surface quality of a fdm print with vapour and use a milling machine to add the missing fine details.

The B9 is the right tool for most things I do, but there are one or two things the Ultimaker 2 is better suited for.

[CarterTG]

With my older standard-def v1.1 B9 printer, Red resin worked fine and I printed nearly a jug's worth before seeing faint clouding. It was only when testing that printer with the then-new Cherry resin, I needed to crank the layer exposure times to around 14 seconds... that's about the limit for PDMS at that lumen level.

My recent results with the new v1.2 B9 Creator HD:

http://b9c.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f...art=120#p32398

In addition to the insane detail, the HD projector brings a higher power lamp... this means that each layer's exposure time is only in the 1-2 second range. All the moaning about PDMS clouding is a thing of the past with the new machine. Almost 30 print sessions with a combo of Black and Cherry prints and the PDMS remains crystal clear.


BlackCherry.jpg