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  1. #901
    Thanks rcleav for posting that list. A lot of useful stuff.

    I printed this, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:604579, but it doesn't fit, it just falls off. I printed in ABS with a Raft, the print turned out ok. However it doesn't fit, it just drops off. I probably should have printed one to test instead of printing all 3 at once.
    This one may work, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1340078, I have yet to print it out.

  2. #902
    I'm based in europe and will probably buy the printer through the german amazon store. it's listet for 673€ including shipping from china. That would mean that there will be additional customs charges too, right? any cheaper suggestions?

    i also found it on ebay... what price offer will they accept? any ideas
    Last edited by Shinobi; 04-13-2016 at 02:48 AM.

  3. #903
    Quote Originally Posted by kaznad View Post
    Thanks rcleav for posting that list. A lot of useful stuff.

    I printed this, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:604579, but it doesn't fit, it just falls off. I printed in ABS with a Raft, the print turned out ok. However it doesn't fit, it just drops off. I probably should have printed one to test instead of printing all 3 at once.
    This one may work, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1340078, I have yet to print it out.
    The second one is a remix and he says he made it to address the issues of the original like you are talking about.

  4. #904
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaznad View Post
    Thanks rcleav for posting that list. A lot of useful stuff.

    I printed this, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:604579, but it doesn't fit, it just falls off. I printed in ABS with a Raft, the print turned out ok. However it doesn't fit, it just drops off. I probably should have printed one to test instead of printing all 3 at once.
    This one may work, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1340078, I have yet to print it out.
    They are a little loose I used a dab of Shoe Goo to glue it in place. A glue that I use on my RC stuff.

  5. #905
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    Add KludgeGuru on Thingiverse
    Quote Originally Posted by kaznad View Post
    Thanks rcleav for posting that list. A lot of useful stuff.

    I printed this, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:604579, but it doesn't fit, it just falls off. I printed in ABS with a Raft, the print turned out ok. However it doesn't fit, it just drops off. I probably should have printed one to test instead of printing all 3 at once.
    This one may work, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1340078, I have yet to print it out.
    I printed that one too and found that it falls off, so I took a heat gun to it and melted the corners around the nut. I think the sharp corners on the outer diameter is a poor design and it hurts your finger tips when you try to torque down on the nut. I plan to redesign it to be more finger tip friendly... eventually.

  6. #906
    Quote Originally Posted by KludgeGuru View Post
    I printed that one too and found that it falls off, so I took a heat gun to it and melted the corners around the nut. I think the sharp corners on the outer diameter is a poor design and it hurts your finger tips when you try to torque down on the nut. I plan to redesign it to be more finger tip friendly... eventually.
    See, this is why when I see all of these printed glass corner holders on Thingiverse I laugh at them because if it can be printed it shouldn't be used on something that is going to get hot. Seriously, we use a heated bed to help it hold it down around the Tg of the plastic yet it is being used around the same heat source? Seriously? It makes no sense and I am surprised the holders work as I know from my own experiences those screws, even SS (only slows down the heat progression not stops it) can get hot enough to burn you a nice blister if it is touching the HPB especially when doing ABS and the HPB is at 110c.

  7. #907
    Engineer-in-Training
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    When sealing small holes in ABS piece with slurry how long yall usually wait for slurry to cure before working (sanding/painting n such) the area?

    And to answer an earlier question...
    The yellow ABS from Orb Polymer is WAY better than the black. It bridges better, yields crisper/cleaner edges and corners, and virtually no warping to be seen at all. Not saying that Orbs black is bad, because its not, its very good actually. But the yellow a bit better.
    Getting my first shipment from MakerGeeks today, can't wait to see what I got, and run some of their ABS see how it compares.
    Kinda seeing ABS as being main workhorse for my shop. Do some artsy stuff in PLA because it comes out better, but 80% of uptime on my machine most weeks is ABS.

  8. #908
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkAlchemist View Post
    See, this is why when I see all of these printed glass corner holders on Thingiverse I laugh at them because if it can be printed it shouldn't be used on something that is going to get hot. Seriously, we use a heated bed to help it hold it down around the Tg of the plastic yet it is being used around the same heat source? Seriously? It makes no sense and I am surprised the holders work as I know from my own experiences those screws, even SS (only slows down the heat progression not stops it) can get hot enough to burn you a nice blister if it is touching the HPB especially when doing ABS and the HPB is at 110c.
    I don't like the plastic glass holders either. The problem I have is I have to re-tighten them after each heat cycle. My solution is to use the Maghold plate and glue the glass to the top of the spring steel. It works well, except for my Maghold plate was warped. Putting a glass plate on top of the Maghold helped but I used 1/8" glass and it could bend just enough to follow the warp of the Maghold plate. I shipped my Maghold plate back yesterday to be replaced. I hope the replacement is more flat.

  9. #909
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkAlchemist View Post
    See, this is why when I see all of these printed glass corner holders on Thingiverse I laugh at them because if it can be printed it shouldn't be used on something that is going to get hot. Seriously, we use a heated bed to help it hold it down around the Tg of the plastic yet it is being used around the same heat source? Seriously? It makes no sense and I am surprised the holders work as I know from my own experiences those screws, even SS (only slows down the heat progression not stops it) can get hot enough to burn you a nice blister if it is touching the HPB especially when doing ABS and the HPB is at 110c.
    You kinda answered your own question.

    Melting point of PLA is 180ish c, most run it at 190-200c. ABS is 220c+. PeTG is 230ish.

    The absolute hottest I have EVER gotten the build plate on my machine is 110c..and it only stays this hot for a few layers.
    Also take into consideration that most actually using printed plate clamps are using something a little higher grade than ABS (like PeTG or one of the other high-end engineering resins) and its very workable using printed plate clamps.

  10. #910
    Quote Originally Posted by Syd_Khaos View Post
    You kinda answered your own question.

    Melting point of PLA is 180ish c, most run it at 190-200c. ABS is 220c+. PeTG is 230ish.

    The absolute hottest I have EVER gotten the build plate on my machine is 110c..and it only stays this hot for a few layers.
    Also take into consideration that most actually using printed plate clamps are using something a little higher grade than ABS (like PeTG or one of the other high-end engineering resins) and its very workable using printed plate clamps.
    Petg is a bad choice. Tg of PLA - 60–65 °C , ABS - 80 to 125 °C, Petg - 67 to 81 °C so my 110c bed temp I use for ABS the PetG would go waaaaaaaaaay past its glass transition temp. Remember Pet is an inbetween of PLA and ABS (sort of like what would happen if PLA and ABS had a baby scenario, lol).

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