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  1. #3671
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    Quote Originally Posted by cncartist View Post
    I'd print a Rubber Duck (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:139894).

    Perfect!
    W, You don't happen to have yellow Ninja-Flex do you?

  2. #3672
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    Not yet ...

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveB View Post
    Perfect!
    W, You don't happen to have yellow Ninja-Flex do you?

  3. #3673
    Technologist cncartist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveB View Post
    Just printed this beastie. No assembly required. Very cool to see it unfold from its collapsed form after printing. The high clearance (.65) model printed and worked well for me in MG Maker PLA. The minimal clearance version wouldn't release to open without fracturing. I put infill at 60% due to strength needs of the screw shaft.

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:925556

    PLATFORM JACK IMAGE
    Very nice, I've printed 5 or 6 of these items from this remix (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:937421) and all the ones I printed were at 30% infill. I have heard other users having issues with the jack but I printed the remixed item and didn't run into any problems.

    I tested mine with supporting weight and it held up better than I thought (http://www.thingiverse.com/make:225013).

  4. #3674
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    Well? First Ninja Flex with the Flexion's is in the books. Not bad but I think plenty of room for improvement.

    Opinions and suggestions welcome!


    [IMG][/IMG]

  5. #3675
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    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    Well? First Ninja Flex with the Flexion's is in the books. Not bad but I think plenty of room for improvement.

    Opinions and suggestions welcome!
    Doesn't look too bad considering the settings will be refined further. What type of post processing can you do with Ninja Flex?

  6. #3676
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    No idea ... bounce it off stuff I guess!
    In all seriousness, ok not really, I was expecting it to be a little smoother. I admit it is a successful print but I hope NinjaFlex can do better than this. Otherwise it is just expensive gasket material!

    Quote Originally Posted by cncartist View Post
    Doesn't look too bad considering the settings will be refined further. What type of post processing can you do with Ninja Flex?

  7. #3677
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    Printed a 7" x 3.5" x 2" four sided tray (open top and front) with ~2mm wall thickness in ABS. Large area didn't warp off the bed (yea!), but all of the sides warped and cracked (boo!). Re-printed it in Raptor PLA and it's just perfect. One of these days I'm just gonna stop beating my head against that ABS wall.

  8. #3678
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    Probably needed the chamber hotter or more stabilized temp. I usually preheat the bed until the chamber hits bout 40c then I start he print. NO FAN!!
    I run 100 bed and 230 nozzle. The warping and cracking is usually cooling to quick.


    Quote Originally Posted by DaveB View Post
    Printed a 7" x 3.5" x 2" four sided tray (open top and front) with ~2mm wall thickness in ABS. Large area didn't warp off the bed (yea!), but all of the sides warped and cracked (boo!). Re-printed it in Raptor PLA and it's just perfect. One of these days I'm just gonna stop beating my head against that ABS wall.

  9. #3679
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    Ok, I have a roll of black eSun PETG.

    What settings for S3D? If anyone getting good prints can fill me in on settings or upload a FFF profile I can check out that would be great.

    OK, back to Ninja!

  10. #3680
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    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    Probably needed the chamber hotter or more stabilized temp. I usually preheat the bed until the chamber hits bout 40c then I start he print. NO FAN!!
    I run 100 bed and 230 nozzle. The warping and cracking is usually cooling to quick.

    Hmm, ambient here is~25C-26C and ~42% humidity. I have been running the bed at 95C. After about 20min the interior temp usually can get up to about 32C and the humidity drops to ~30-34%. I've not noticed the temp climbing past ~32C and I am wondering what's different. Why does your setup warm up so? Ideas?

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