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  1. #2981
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    Kudos to QIDI!! They are really making a great effort on their machines.

    I contacted them about getting a few new thermocoupler's for the X-ONE machine and they have them in the mail already!!

  2. #2982
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    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    To add a note, my extruder clicks a lot when loading filament. I don't know when it started to do this but if I let it go for a little bit to clear out old color it will start to click. I thought it was trying to do a retraction while loading!

    He maybe experiencing the same thing I am where the extruder is clicking hard during loading. I am loading PLA at 200 so there should be no issues!


    I does print fine with no noises.
    If you are clicking then you are clogged or not enough heat. Or possibly but less common your filament is hung up off the spool.

  3. #2983
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    If you are clicking then you are clogged or not enough heat. Or possibly but less common your filament is hung up off the spool.

    None of the above. Nozzle is fine, heat is 200+ and the filament is free to move.

    The extruder runs for about 10 seconds then starts clicking repetitively for a few seconds then extrudes for about 10 seconds and starts clicking again. It does this in cycles if you let it go that long.

  4. #2984
    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    None of the above. Nozzle is fine, heat is 200+ and the filament is free to move.

    The extruder runs for about 10 seconds then starts clicking repetitively for a few seconds then extrudes for about 10 seconds and starts clicking again. It does this in cycles if you let it go that long.
    i experienced the same problem a few weeks ago.
    i took apart the drive mechanism and cleaned out the drive gear and all the scrap that had built up in there and i haven't had a problem since

  5. #2985
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren O'neill View Post
    i experienced the same problem a few weeks ago.
    i took apart the drive mechanism and cleaned out the drive gear and all the scrap that had built up in there and i haven't had a problem since

    Good tip, thanks.

  6. #2986
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    Question: Been printing with MG Crystal PLA, nice stuff. I did a few test prints on the new FFCP at 200, 210 and 220. An initial look at the prints and they all seem about the same, I will look in more detail tonight. What advice might you guys have for determining a good temp to print at? If I don't see any difference let's say in the part at 200 versus the one at 220 is one temp better than another?
    One thing I still am going to test is a model with some height to it to see how the temp affects the color and clarity of the print.

  7. #2987
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    I'm not an expert PLAer, but generally all 3 of those temps are a little high. Some parts you won't notice though especially if you have good direct cooling.

    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    Question: Been printing with MG Crystal PLA, nice stuff. I did a few test prints on the new FFCP at 200, 210 and 220. An initial look at the prints and they all seem about the same, I will look in more detail tonight. What advice might you guys have for determining a good temp to print at? If I don't see any difference let's say in the part at 200 versus the one at 220 is one temp better than another?
    One thing I still am going to test is a model with some height to it to see how the temp affects the color and clarity of the print.

  8. #2988
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    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    Question: Been printing with MG Crystal PLA, nice stuff. I did a few test prints on the new FFCP at 200, 210 and 220. An initial look at the prints and they all seem about the same, I will look in more detail tonight. What advice might you guys have for determining a good temp to print at? If I don't see any difference let's say in the part at 200 versus the one at 220 is one temp better than another?
    One thing I still am going to test is a model with some height to it to see how the temp affects the color and clarity of the print.
    I run the MG Crystal PLA at 230/60. I know that's extreme. On my QiDi it seems to have the best bed adhesion on 1/4" glass and the least stringing at that temp. I have not noticed any degradation in color or clarity. In general, I don't get the same fine detail w/ the Crystal that I can get with the opaque MG Maker PLA, and it definitely is more stringy.

    I just started trying the MG Raptor PLA again (230/60), and the prints still look excellent. I had an extruder jam on my 3rd print with Raptor PLA the 1st time I tried to use it a few months ago, but I am giving it another chance. I gotta say the Raptor stuff prints beautifully, and does not warp or shrink like ABS. It acts like PLA in the warp-age and shrink-age departments. Just hoping it doesn't jam up in my stock QiDi extruder. TBD.

  9. #2989
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveB View Post
    I run the MG Crystal PLA at 230/60. I know that's extreme. On my QiDi it seems to have the best bed adhesion on 1/4" glass and the least stringing at that temp. I have not noticed any degradation in color or clarity. In general, I don't get the same fine detail w/ the Crystal that I can get with the opaque MG Maker PLA, and it definitely is more stringy.

    I just started trying the MG Raptor PLA again (230/60), and the prints still look excellent. I had an extruder jam on my 3rd print with Raptor PLA the 1st time I tried to use it a few months ago, but I am giving it another chance. I gotta say the Raptor stuff prints beautifully, and does not warp or shrink like ABS. It acts like PLA in the warp-age and shrink-age departments. Just hoping it doesn't jam up in my stock QiDi extruder. TBD.

    I have run the Crystal down to 180, bed adhesion has not been an issue. However, I was starting the bed at 70-75 and walking it down every few layers until I hit 55. I am backing off that to start at 65 now and see how it goes.

    On mine 190 is where the stringing stops on any PLA, 195 and game on for stringing. I have been reading up on and looking at how temp affects color. It seems with some stuff as temp changes the color/material can go from a mat like finish to more glossy.

    I am just wondering what I am looking for to tell that I have hit the upper limit on temp ... aside from a boiling molten blob from the extruder!!

    Although I am a big QIDI fan - this FFCP has worked without issue so far. Did a 7 hour print that was a thin 147mm tall with the blue Crystal and it went off without a hitch!

  10. #2990
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    Anyone given this site a shot yet? Just found it but haven't looked into it at all.

    https://makeprintable.com/

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