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  1. #2791
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    The 10mm rods and bearings i get come from Misumi so generally better quality. How much? i don't know.... The bearings I specced also have a 4 hole flange, but I am pretty sure a 2 hole flange will bolt up. The top and bottom brackets help along with the stiff platform.

    Why did you spin the bed? Is it a different heat platform etc? How much for the whole kit? I am guessing I could save or use my 10mm stuff as needed.

    My flange is 4 hole where the bearing are on the smooth rods as is the "bearing" for the screw z rod.

  2. #2792
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveB View Post
    Here are some pix of the installed 10mm rods and carbon fibre build platform that I got from JFkansas:

    I started by taking the bottom off, and here is the first thing I noticed. These guys are consistent.



    Enough levity, here are the installed unit pix:









    Looks good. Going to be interested in the performance. I was thinking on having the local machine shop do a similar platform base out of aluminum.

  3. #2793
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    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    Looks good, I went with carbon since it is heat stable and light weight. That huge piece of carbon is lighter than the stamped steel piece. The bed is turned because that is how it fits with the leveling adjusters moved to the corners. You can't drill new holes in the heater board since it will cut the traces.

    I'll do the same deal for anyone but I only have 2 left for the moment. $150 shipped for the full kit with platform, top/bottom mount, hardware, rods and bearings. Probably will include the new Z switch mount also since it seems to be necessary.

    This is kind of an introductory thing to get the kits sorted out and what is needed. I learned a little with Dave's feedback, and I need to working on some instructions.

  4. #2794
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    Looks good, I went with carbon since it is heat stable and light weight. That huge piece of carbon is lighter than the stamped steel piece. The bed is turned because that is how it fits with the leveling adjusters moved to the corners. You can't drill new holes in the heater board since it will cut the traces.

    I'll do the same deal for anyone but I only have 2 left for the moment. $150 shipped for the full kit with platform, top/bottom mount, hardware, rods and bearings. Probably will include the new Z switch mount also since it seems to be necessary.

    This is kind of an introductory thing to get the kits sorted out and what is needed. I learned a little with Dave's feedback, and I need to working on some instructions.


    Sounds good but I think I really prefer the two adjusters in the front as opposed to the rear.

  5. #2795
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    6 in one half dozen in the other really. There isn't anything to prefer. lol Flashforge printers have the single middle one in front also.

    If I was going to move the adjusters to the corners it made more sense to put them in back since it is already wider back there for the rails. There are more benefits to having the adjusters at the corners since it removes a teetering effect when leveling.
    Last edited by jfkansas; 08-12-2016 at 04:12 PM.

  6. #2796
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    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    Sounds good but I think I really prefer the two adjusters in the front as opposed to the rear.
    I'm not having any issue with the position of the adjusters being swapped. So far I am not having to adjust them very often, maybe less vibration?

    Also ran across this for your Flexion's: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1715839 I do not yet understand its significance.

  7. #2797
    Quote Originally Posted by DaveB View Post
    I'm not having any issue with the position of the adjusters being swapped. So far I am not having to adjust them very often, maybe less vibration?

    Also ran across this for your Flexion's: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1715839 I do not yet understand its significance.
    This is a file for machines that do not have load /unload filament scripts on the printer like ours.

    BTW. I got and installed the flexion too. I am only using the right one while I wait for a new thermocoupler but do far so good - printing a calibration cube now. Will post back with results.

    MODERATOR NOTE: Post is late to appear due to unexpected problems obtaining moderator approval.
    Last edited by printbus; 10-10-2016 at 05:40 PM.

  8. #2798
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveB View Post
    I'm not having any issue with the position of the adjusters being swapped. So far I am not having to adjust them very often, maybe less vibration?

    Also ran across this for your Flexion's: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1715839 I do not yet understand its significance.
    I am sure it works fine. It's a very good looking build. In my situation the placement of the printer, height etc. make gauging the rear position a bit of a pain. In other words the front ones are much easier to see and do!!

    Thanks for the file from thiniverse, this is to help with mainly unload if you choose to use it but I am sure you figured that. I like the temp control. I found out that on the old extruder I could start the unload and sit and wait on temp then hold the friction release and lightly pull up as the filament softened and at one point it just lets go and all the filament comes out clean. On the old setup this helped with color contamination.

    The Flexion doesn't have the release. You can do it manually but then you have to reset the tension. I can see that this could be handy.

  9. #2799
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    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    Looks good. Going to be interested in the performance. I was thinking on having the local machine shop do a similar platform base out of aluminum.
    I've printed a few more items with the new 10mm rod and carbon fiber platform setup and all is working well. The cube tests I did are excellent. I do not see resonance in the sides like I used to with the stock platform. I think what I am now seeing is a faint alias pattern where the filament feeder injects filament. All 4 sides of the test cubes look the same, and that alone is a huge change from the stock platform.

    I've resolved the Z-axis limit switch position issue by using a replacement switch assy mounting that JFkansas provided. I am a MagHold build plate user, and have several different build surfaces to choose from. Each of the surfaces are a different thickness, so my limit switch is setup for the thinnest one, and I make Z-axis shims for use with all the thicker ones. Here is a link to the basic shim design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1718515 It lays on top of the carbon fiber platform. Here is a pix of the shim in place on the platform.


  10. #2800
    W - I'm not sure if you saw it on Flexion's site, but they provide a filament guide tube adapter that fits nicely on the Qidi. It's available here: https://flexionextruder.com/wp-conte...guide_dual.STL

    I printed one out in PLA and used the extra screws in the Flexion kit for attaching to the carriage. This allows me to use the filament feed tubes provided by Qidi and so far so good - although when loading filament I often pull the Qidi tube so I can see the smaller Flexion tube.

    MODERATOR NOTE: Post is late to view due to unexpected problems in obtaining moderator approval.
    Last edited by printbus; 10-10-2016 at 05:38 PM.

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