Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[DaveB]

230° for PLA? I stay in the 190°-200° range, usually. Does this "crystal" stuff require more heat?

Aside from the two rolls of filament that came with the Qidi, all of the filament I have came from MakerGeeks. I have been doing most of my printing in MG "Maker PLA", and I like how it works at 210C. This is Sooo subjective, but at 200C or lower I think the MG PLA loses some detail in the prints. That and $5 will get you a cup of coffee. MG claims just about everything they make is good at 230C, but I think they are selling, not spec'ing.

[DarkAlchemist]

Mine arrives today but remember this is not PLA this is PETG or was yours the Crystal PLA? Mine is the Crystal PETG and if the holiday hadn't happened it takes 1 day to get here from MG and delivered the next day.

[DarkAlchemist]

I'm inclined to agree, the more I look into it the more I think it's a firmware rather than hardware issue.

For what it's worth regarding the firmware resetting a couple of pages back. I've tried it today, it's seems to make no difference. Just what you'd expect it to do, back to how it was when the printer arrived.

What was the firmware Qidi used to use because I wonder if that really did a variable (PWM) signal? Something tells me Jetty's SF is at the core of the issues especially since it is riddled with comments suggesting a real PWM just does NOT exist in anywhere in it.

[wirlybird]

What was the firmware Qidi used to use because I wonder if that really did a variable (PWM) signal? Something tells me Jetty's SF is at the core of the issues especially since it is riddled with comments suggesting a real PWM just does NOT exist in anywhere in it.

I read a comment elsewhere that the person thought the "variable" fan speed was more a function of rapid on-off signals giving the illusion of varying the speed. For what it's worth!

[DarkAlchemist]

I read a comment elsewhere that the person thought the "variable" fan speed was more a function of rapid on-off signals giving the illusion of varying the speed. For what it's worth!

That is what PWM basically is but it has a timer to do it right. Apparently Sailfish can't do it. It can't even do it for the HBP according to the comments in the source code so they made a kludge of using only 1 bit and it seems to work (I never looked at the nozzle section but if the HBP doesn't have real PWM and the Fan doesn't have it I bet the Nozzle doesn't as well).

Too bad Marlin will not work with a Mightyboard.

edit: So much for getting my MG PETG as my Post Office decided not to deliver it today even though it has been here since Saturday and says it is out for delivery. I ran down a carrier but they aren't the one who delivered to my address so my package, for right now, is in limbo.

[DaveB]

The new QIDI printer has shown up on Amazon.
"Item model number: QDTHXO20160705"
The model number seems rather current. (Shades of THX-1138 too?)

https://www.amazon.com/QIDI-TECHNOLO.../dp/B01HZ4HY9I

[DarkAlchemist]

The new QIDI printer has shown up on Amazon.
"Item model number: QDTHXO20160705"
The model number seems rather current. (Shades of THX-1138 too?)

https://www.amazon.com/QIDI-TECHNOLO.../dp/B01HZ4HY9I

Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.

At least it is there but far too small for anything I would use a 3d printer for.

[DarkAlchemist]

I posted to Jetty about this since he can't eat me just ignore me so we will see what he has to say for himself, and this issue, since this is his baby since 2012.

[DarkAlchemist]

Well, sheet -

• Expected Delivery Day: Tuesday, July 5, 2016
• Your item was undeliverable as addressed at 5:21 pm on July 5, 2016 in xxxxx. It is being returned if appropriate information is available.

Isn't that just great. Told ya I hate this post office who can't even get a package to me in one piece 300 miles away. Probably that driver that grunted at me last year for having to deliver my package sat on it or drove their truck over it so they wouldn't have to deliver it.

[DaveB]

ABS ate my Borosilcate !

There's an inch long meandering divot in the surface of my 1/4" glass plate and the mating chunk is adhered to the ABS piece I was making. What the heck? How often does this happen? I had been thinking of the glass plate as indestructible, unless I dropped it or did something else clumsy or stupid. I guess not. Now there's this little ersatz dry riverbed thingy in the middle of an otherwise pristine surface. Might as well be the grand canyon.

Yeah, I know you're thinking "Hey, just flip it over, it's only 50% gone". Not so fast, I'm a Maghold user. It's payback time for all those seconds saved not having to deal with clips or pads etc.. I get to discover how easy it is to separate that steel plate from the back of the glass. It's only stuck on there with 60 square inches of 3M 468 MP high-temperature sheet adhesive. I don't know if hi-temp is going to be the answer for getting it to loosen, but I guess I will find out. I'm thinking of that video cncartist did of scraping Qidi blue BuildTak off the metal build plate...

And then I get to flip it over and re-apply it! Any suggestions? What causes these divots to happen in the glass? Anyone else have this happen?