Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[Syd_Khaos]

What extruder temp do you use for makergeeks PLA? I am trying 230 and 220 and not sure what I think yet.

Really depends on what your printing. I don't do much in PLA, but what I do has wide range, from 190c to about 228c.

If its something 'basic' is shape you can lower the heat some. If its something complex or with very high definition bit then you gonna wanna crank the heat up for the higher viscosity.
The only thing I use PLA for is very artistic or fine detail prints that just wont come out in ABS. Also the food safe stuff...but not by choice. If I could get FDA abs Id go that route.

I don't like pla....

[wirlybird]

Really depends on what your printing. I don't do much in PLA, but what I do has wide range, from 190c to about 228c.

If its something 'basic' is shape you can lower the heat some. If its something complex or with very high definition bit then you gonna wanna crank the heat up for the higher viscosity.
The only thing I use PLA for is very artistic or fine detail prints that just wont come out in ABS. Also the food safe stuff...but not by choice. If I could get FDA abs Id go that route.

I don't like pla....

With the temp up, 230, where they suggest I am getting stringing. I may just not have the retraction settings in S3D set very good yet! Open to any suggestions on settings for makergeek and PLA in S3D!!

I agree that the ABS has been working pretty good.

[DaveB]

With the temp up, 230, where they suggest I am getting stringing. I may just not have the retraction settings in S3D set very good yet! Open to any suggestions on settings for makergeek and PLA in S3D!!

I agree that the ABS has been working pretty good.

The MG Crystal PLA works very differently from their standard Maker PLA line. I've been running the MG Crystal PLA at 230, while their standard PLA I run most frequently at 210.

[wirlybird]

The MG Crystal PLA works very differently from their standard Maker PLA line. I've been running the MG Crystal PLA at 230, while their standard PLA I run most frequently at 210.

I am trying a larger print with the PLA at 190 now to see what happens.

[wirlybird]

The MG Crystal PLA works very differently from their standard Maker PLA line. I've been running the MG Crystal PLA at 230, while their standard PLA I run most frequently at 210.

I have found on the regular PLA that 190 gives good results with almost no stringing. Even at 195 the stringing is much worse.

I tried the MG Crystal at 230 and pretty heavy stringing. Is this stringing, on either, because of too hot or are my retraction settings crap?

[wirlybird]

Here is the new design for my spool roller base. It is a redesign from scratch of one I found on line.

I think I am getting the MG PLA under control!


[IMG][/IMG]

[DaveB]

What is the best glue to use with ABS for strength of bond?

[Syd_Khaos]

What is the best glue to use with ABS for strength of bond?

Super glue (KrazyGlu) works WONDERS on ABS...really any of these plastics.
Most super glue is super thin, it will seep into all the little cracks and grooves on both bits being bonded.
What I do for most stuff is use industrial formula super glue (I get it at Wal-Mart) to bond parts. If its not getting painted that's it...for stuff that is getting painted I will go over any seams with gel superglue (also from wal-mart).

For thin bits, or odd shapes hard to get together contact cement works pretty good. It is not nearly as strong as most super glues, but its thickness really helps in these situations. And its hell of alot better than superglueing your fingers together, or to a print....trust me on this one lol. If I have to go the contact cement route then I always go back over seams with the gel superglue.

If, for some crazy reason, you need something stronger than superglue 3M makes a 2 part epoxy, designed for patching hulls in formed craft like the HobbieCraft catamaran sailboats. This stuff will bond to darn near every plastic under the sun. It is prob not cheap, and prob only able to get large amounts of it, but it is an option. I don't recall the name of it, sorry for that, but it is 3M and it is specifiaclly for marine uses...shouldnt be to hard to find.

edit:
Really to get the most of any glueing you should use pegs. Its super easy to knock some pegs holes into each side of most stuff ya gonna want to glue together, then print some pegs. I even use pegs on really small stuff. A 2mm round peg that double the length will make a HUGE diff with how stable/sturdy something feels after being glued together. And, you get the added bonus of having a way to keep things perfectly aligned every time. Using pegs and some simple bar clamps (cabniet clamps) you can assembly everything perfectly everytime.

[Noircogi]

What is the best glue to use with ABS for strength of bond?

I've built a lot of things with sheet ABS. For that I use Scigrip 2354 which I got at Tap Plastics. It perfectly fuses the parts into a single piece.

It works great on 3D-printed ABS as well, and I would think it's vastly better than cyanoacrylate. I've used it to fuse ABS sheet to 3D-printed ABS parts.

http://www.scigrip.com/product.php?id=35
https://www.tapplastics.com/product/...ld_on_2354/134

[DaveB]

I've built a lot of things with sheet ABS. For that I use Scigrip 2354 which I got at Tap Plastics. It perfectly fuses the parts into a single piece.

It works great on 3D-printed ABS as well, and I would think it's vastly better than cyanoacrylate. I've used it to fuse ABS sheet to 3D-printed ABS parts.

http://www.scigrip.com/product.php?id=35
https://www.tapplastics.com/product/...ld_on_2354/134

Looks like a mixture of acetone and MEK. Dissolves ABS material to form a bond.