Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[cncartist]

I finally had the time to print my first object. It was a design of my own. Printed in ABS at 210 and bed at 110. Came out ok all but the base. As it was my first print, I used the Qidi as received, i.e., I didn't remove the blue pad on the table. The object starts as a tube standing on end. The blue pad of the Qidi, bubbled up in the middle, which altered the first few layers of my object. The blue Qidi table pad remained bubbled up (single bubble) in the center. Anybody have this happen before? I do have the glass paltes that I plan on using, so identifying the issue is more curiosity issue for me.

I'm using glue stick for adhesion on the "blue sticker" build plate, what are you using for adhesion? In the 3 or 4 blue stickers I've been through, they have all been properly bonded to the bed and didn't have any issues rising. I do notice the sticker acts differently over the mounting holes, but the glue stick between prints fixes that issue in my experience and I'm sure a glass build plate/hairspray combo would correct that.

Yep, it barely fits so everything has to be precise although I couldn't manage to move itto place as you did.

No problem, I also had to figure out how to open it like a rar/zip!

[vbx]

The print is using the whole Y axis of the printer and has to be rotated on an awkward angle to fit on the plate. It does fit and the finished print bed would be a wall of support going across and having proper environment calibration for even the filament guide tubes/extruder wires would be important.

?? You can scale it on Makerbot..... Or check the "scale to fit" option when you load it.

Capture.jpg

[cncartist]

The STL import size is usually the size that the object should be printed at unless otherwise directed. It can be scaled, but what you show is a scaling that should be specified from print directions, ex. 50% scale.

Mainly all the objects without scale specifications that I downloaded were printed at 100% scale of the STL import. The exceptions were items where the units were definitely off (IN instead of MM) and those were parts that had no moving or mating features.

If your objective is to print it in a smaller scale, I'm sure it could be test printed with much less filament but there may be a loss of detail.

[JSensebe]

I'm now printing my own objects. I decided, even I know though it shouldn't work, to test a snap fit component in PLA. Should be interesting.

[Syd_Khaos]

I'm now printing my own objects. I decided, even I know though it shouldn't work, to test a snap fit component in PLA. Should be interesting.

Any reason (aside from the challenge) your printing snap-fit parts in PLA?

I tried a couple things like this in PLA not long after I got the printer (before I decided to work mostly in ABS). Most just cracked when snaped together. Had one part work ok, but the snap bit had less than milimeter of flex for sure.
Snap fit works great in ABS and some PeTG. I have clear petg it works great with, some green stuff not so much.

[JSensebe]

Actually, my snap fit part worked fine in PLA. Surprised the hell out of me. It was only the snap fit section and not the whole part. I'm gonna go for broke now and print the whole project in PLA.

All my prints have been in PLA so far. I haven't had a failed print except for one I aborted because I realized I forgot the change a setting, but that was totally my fault. Things have gone so smoothly in PLA so far that I'm reluctant to switch right now, and I was curious to see what my part would do in PLA. I think the way I've designed it spreads the stress out enough that it doesn't break. And this part is designed to be permanent once it's together, so I don't have to worry about repeating the stress of snapping/unsnapping.

That's what I tell myself, anyway. Possibly, I was just lucky.

[vbx]

Is there a way to set the cooling fan to go on automatically? Hate having to manually turn it on every time since I only use PLA filaments.

[DarkAlchemist]

Is there a way to set the cooling fan to go on automatically? Hate having to manually turn it on every time since I only use PLA filaments.

That setting is done via the slicer.

[SteveW25561]

I've ordered one of these and am expecting to see it on Tuesday!!

I bought it because I've been interested in 3D printing, but am also hoping to print & build a BB8! The BB8 usergroup has freely available STL files, and have made quarter-cut files for smaller print beds, however, the Qidi (and FFCPro)'s build beds are just on the small side for the full sized files.

I'm wondering if it's possible to mod this printer's print bed by extending it a bit to be larger (especially the X axis, possibly a bit on Y), and if I use Simply3D to change the printbed dimmensions? I think we need about 5 cm more in the X dimension? I've attached a couple of STL files that either are just a bit too big or just at the boundaries of our build envelope of the Qidi to show what I mean. These are the full sized ones, not the quarter cut ones.

The biuld size table at http://bb8builders.club/forum/showth...cember-23-2015 shows that a Makerbot Replicator 2 or especially the 2X with a build plate that's just a bit bigger than ours (x of 246 vs 225 on Qidi/FFCP), can do the full regular sized files but they recommend 1/4 size files for our printbed.
(sorry: I'm trying to edit to make a readable table below but the forum re-formats it)

3D printer name =======Build Area ==== Which Dome/Ring STL's
Flash Forge Creator Pro ====

225 x 145 x 150 =======1/4

Makerbot Replicator 2X ====

246 x 152 x 155 ======full

Makerbot Replicator 2 =====

285 x 153 x 155 =======full

There's a youtube video of a guy who extended his plate to 8x10 using glass but I can't find details of anyone else doing this, or if the printbed is actually addressable to that size.

https://youtu.be/CXBwQiOQ458?list=PL...19_QuYrOS9I2gf

Here are the STL files that I think are right up to our build limit, or in the dome file, a bit larger:

BB8 Dome Panel 1 v2 mag.stl
Dome Skirt Ring 1 V5.stl
Triangle1 - 1 of 3 - overlap.stl

I understand the left sided travel might be limited due to the fan on the left, but what if we modded the fan to be on the front, like others did before Qidi shipped the newer printhead? For example, a fan like this one:
ActiveDuctV2.0_preview_featured.jpg

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:537918

Thoughts on this?

[DarkAlchemist]

I've ordered one of these and am expecting to see it on Tuesday!!

I bought it because I've been interested in 3D printing, but am also hoping to print & build a BB8! The BB8 usergroup has freely available STL files, and have made quarter-cut files for smaller print beds, however, the Qidi (and FFCPro)'s build beds are just on the small side for the full sized files.

I'm wondering if it's possible to mod this printer's print bed by extending it a bit to be larger (especially the X axis, possibly a bit on Y), and if I use Simply3D to change the printbed dimmensions? I think we need about 5 cm more in the X dimension? I've attached a couple of STL files that either are just a bit too big or just at the boundaries of our build envelope of the Qidi to show what I mean. These are the full sized ones, not the quarter cut ones.

The biuld size table at http://bb8builders.club/forum/showth...cember-23-2015 shows that a Makerbot Replicator 2 or especially the 2X with a build plate that's just a bit bigger than ours (x of 246 vs 225 on Qidi/FFCP), can do the full regular sized files but they recommend 1/4 size files for our printbed.

3D printer name ======== Build Area ==== Which Dome/Ring STL's
Flash Forge Creator Pro ======

225 x 145 x 150 =======1/4

Makerbot Replicator 2X ======

246 x 152 x 155 ======full

Makerbot Replicator 2 =======

285 x 153 x 155 =======full

There's a youtube video of a guy who extended his plate to 8x10 using glass but I can't find details of anyone else doing this, or if the printbed is actually addressable to that size.

https://youtu.be/CXBwQiOQ458?list=PL...19_QuYrOS9I2gf

Here are the STL files that I think are right up to our build limit, or in the dome file, a bit larger:

BB8 Dome Panel 1 v2 mag.stl
Dome Skirt Ring 1 V5.stl
Triangle1 - 1 of 3 - overlap.stl

I understand the left sided travel might be limited due to the fan on the left, but what if we modded the fan to be on the front, like others did before Qidi shipped the newer printhead? For example, a fan like this one:
ActiveDuctV2.0_preview_featured.jpg

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:537918

Thoughts on this?

Nope, you can't as I was hoping that as well but the Nozzle's full path is the width, and length, of the bed. So, what you have is what you got. I suspect they made the enclosure smaller than the ones that are on YT showing how they extended it. My Qidi is the latest version and no way no how.

As far as the fan I am not sure but that is my want but I don't think there is enough room AND, btw, if you home the X AXIS then via the control panel move over to the left you will SLAM into the left hand side (I was slamming into this with their prints too) because the machine's max X is too long due to the addition of the fan. Add the fan's depth to X (reduce the number) and no more slamming. I think I had to take at least 10mm off but I think it was more like 15-18mm.