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  1. #1
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
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    Use the putty knife is the only advice I have what was your bed Temp when you printed?
    Haven't tried it but wonder how Aquanet hairspray sprayed on the blue pad would work? Just don't get it all over the rest of the printer. I have several glass plates making it easy to swap and spray them outside the printer. I also like the glass build plates because when a prints done I just remove the whole plate from the printer and stick it the freezer for 10 minutes. It practically falls off after cooling off.

  2. #2
    Did the glass bed upgrade, best thing so far!

    Bought a 1/4 mirror from Goodwill for $10 and a $5 glass cutter from Lowes. Watched this video and it was pretty easy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoOKeZEKhrM

    Had to use this spacer for the bed, the one for the flashforge was slightly off: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1225804
    Glass brackets were made with the customizer: http://www.thingiverse.com/apps/cust...b354f416a74f22

    When the mirror cools, the print pretty much falls off, don't forget to use hair spray. I have two mirrors now so I don't need to wait. I have enough mirror to make a couple more too. Awesome upgrade!

    IMG_20160109_225059566.jpg
    IMG_20160109_225111256.jpg

  3. #3
    I got it off finally. I picked up a skinny print removal tool from amazon. It works great. I am still using the blue pad because the tool gets it off pretty easy now.

  4. #4
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
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    Sounds like you're on the right track.

  5. #5
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
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    Nice looks like I have another upgrade to try.
    Qidi Tech just sold me a complete dual extruder assy. with cooling fan for a great price ($55) to replace the one my older model had without the cooling fan. I soldered a connector in the blank fan space on the board and it works fine with full software control. I'm still on the creator firmware. The only real difference between new and older MK10 extruders is the one with the cooling fan has tapped holes in the end of the cool block to attach the cooling fan mount. All these parts are available separately on ebay.

  6. #6
    Student HiloDB1's Avatar
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    I seen someone asking for a screen shot of the firmware for the printer. Mine is one of the newer versions of this machine and is loaded with Sailfish 7.8.

    20160114_191636.jpg

    Also can anyone tell my why my part came out like this?

    20160114_194821.jpg

    It looks like it was doing good for the first half and then the rest started to get a little funky. It happened on 2 opposite corners. Not sure why?

    Sorry for the crappy pics

  7. #7
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
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    It's hard to tell from the picture whats wrong there.
    Simplify3D has print quality guide that might help.
    https://www.simplify3d.com/support/p...oubleshooting/

  8. #8
    Ok. I switched over from ReplicatorG to Makerbot software. I think I like it better than ReplicatorG. One thing though. I haven't figured out how to turn on the auxiliary pla cooling fan. Is anyone else using Makerbot and did they figure out how to turn on the cooling fan in the system? I've only used pla so far for printing.

  9. #9
    Student HiloDB1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fyeoms View Post
    Ok. I switched over from ReplicatorG to Makerbot software. I think I like it better than ReplicatorG. One thing though. I haven't figured out how to turn on the auxiliary pla cooling fan. Is anyone else using Makerbot and did they figure out how to turn on the cooling fan in the system? I've only used pla so far for printing.
    The Makerbot software has no provision to run the cooling fan on our printers. I'm just going to get S3D software as soon as funds are available.

  10. #10
    My Qidi works fine in ReplicatorG.
    But I run into problems with other SW that I downloded and tried.
    When I export files from Makerbot Desktop version 3.8.11 , it will not set the extruder temp in the g-code. I've tried the Replicator Dual, the Replicator 2 and the Replicator 2x settings with the same result. I also tried to use the recognized Qidi-Printer setting when USB is connected, no dice. Anyone has a workaround for this, except manually setting the extruder-temp on the printer?
    Lastly, has someone on this board a working Qidi calibration file for slic3r?
    Any help woul be appreciated.

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