Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[kaznad]

I would like to know if anyone knows the specs on the machine's hardware? What is the pitch of the Z axis leadscrew and diameter? I take it the machine uses GT2 belts but what is the tooth count on the X/Y pulleys?

The "PC glue" (I couldn't find anything about this as I wanted to see real stats vs the 3m glue they claim is inferior) how do I get that off without bending/warping the build plate?

For the "PC glue" portion, just use the included scrapper to slowly remove the blue print surface. The blue sticker is rather sticky, you will have some sticky residue on it, I think some label remover might help remove it. I took out the whole build plate and it was easier to do. I dun think you can bend or warp the build plate by just removing the blue sticker. It is quite a solid piece of aluminum block.

[DarkAlchemist]

For the "PC glue" portion, just use the included scrapper to slowly remove the blue print surface. The blue sticker is rather sticky, you will have some sticky residue on it, I think some label remover might help remove it. I took out the whole build plate and it was easier to do. I dun think you can bend or warp the build plate by just removing the blue sticker. It is quite a solid piece of aluminum block.

Good to know as I will be moving over to glass especially after I read how PLA sticks to that for all there is.

As far as my Z question I am backwards engineering as much as I can and it looks like they use (if the steps I am seeing is correct for the Qidi) a M8 8 pitch for the leadscrew. Ugh. Still plenty of resolution so no worries and after the people (there have been a few) got that bent they offered to send another but that sucker is part of the motor (like the robot digg ones) so man, I sure hope mine comes alright as all of those screws mentioned earlier this would be a task. Personally a new printer should be sent out and a return sticker issued if it happens. My fingers are crossed.

This leaves X and Y tooth count.

I just looked and 8 pitch versus a 2 pitch is a huge difference as it isn't just resolution. So, this is one mod I would do asap for reasons I would be glad to get into.

How long is that Z leadscrew?

[jfkansas]

For the "PC glue" portion, just use the included scrapper to slowly remove the blue print surface. The blue sticker is rather sticky, you will have some sticky residue on it, I think some label remover might help remove it. I took out the whole build plate and it was easier to do. I dun think you can bend or warp the build plate by just removing the blue sticker. It is quite a solid piece of aluminum block.

WD40 is a good adhesive remover. Spray on and let sit for an hour or so. Use a plastic scraper so to not scratch up the aluminum. Even an ice scraper will work, but I have some vinyl install squeeges that work for this.

[KludgeGuru]

WD40 is a good adhesive remover. Spray on and let sit for an hour or so. Use a plastic scraper so to not scratch up the aluminum. Even an ice scraper will work, but I have some vinyl install squeeges that work for this.

I second WD40. It works well on Acrylic also without fogging up the glass.

[DarkAlchemist]

I second WD40. It works well on Acrylic also without fogging up the glass.

Getting rid of sticky glue is never a problem (I was just wondering how to peel it off without damaging something) and if WD40 doesn't work (I have seen this not work before) olive oil sitting on it for about an hour makes it come off easily. Use some grease cutter and wipe clean and I am not really into scraping and gouging.

How do I get the tech information I need? I know Emily will not have it.

[cncartist]

To remove the blue pad I heated the build plate up to 90c and then used heat resistant gloves to peel the pad off after using a scrape tool to raise the corner. After removing it (~30 seconds of light peeling) I used Goof-Off and in 15 minutes I was able to remove all the sticky gunk with a paper towel. After I removed the blue pad I let it cool down as 90c was hot enough to vaporize the Goof-Off when I dripped it onto the aluminum. I believe Goof-Off will stain plastic, so be careful.

[cncartist]

Just wanted to chime in that I added the following designs to thingiverse which were made to house a Temperature/Humidity Sensor setup. This setup allows measuring of hot/cold zones inside the printers enclosed area.

Arduino Project Box with locations for LCD/switch/wiring + closable wiring lid - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1520159
LCD Project Box with Header Breakout for 1.8" TFT LCD Display module ST7735S 128x160 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1520137
DHT22/AM2302 Digital Temperature Humidity Sensor Box / Holder / Case with Lid - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1520129





The Arduino code for the system is nearly finalized and hasn't been shared yet. If you print these things out faster than I am able to finish the code and would like to get the output that you see on my LCD, shoot me a message and I can provide what I am currently running. In order to publish the code I have to clean up a few things and comment for readability but it is fully functional.

[DarkAlchemist]

Well, by Tuesday I will be one of you and an owner of a Qidi Avatar IV. Emily accepted my offer and I just paid them.

I asked McMaster's about the weight of the 3/16in and 1/4in Boro glass and it was 1lb vs 1.2lb so which one should I get for this printer?

[jfkansas]

In this class of printer there really is no such thing as Auto Leveling, the electronics don't have the connections to do it right. A mechanical switch trams the Z height accurately enough.

[jfkansas]

It looks better when it is covered with tech flex, this is the only photo I have of the arrangement. It is also lighter weight and probably doesn't make as much noise as a cable chain. I like keeping things simple and effective.