Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[DarkAlchemist]

Loosen the 2 top front right screws that hold the right Y-Axis carriage and then move the extruder back and forth quickly along the Y-Axis. After that, put the extruder just slightly to the left of front dead center and then re-tighten the screws.

That is the exact process and they had me repeat for the rear right carriage as well with having the extruder finish in the same position before tightening (extruder just slightly to the left of front dead center). I'm going to really get in there and lubricate the bearings tomorrow to see if I can alleviate it because the bearings aren't easy to get to without a syringe or something along those lines.

I am so close to buying this printer BUT at over 6 bills and having these sorts of issues I can't do it. Now if the printer was 100 less I would do it and try to fix whatever is wrong but when we are talking about things that are more than half a grand we shouldn't be having these sorts of issues. I don't care if a Stratasys, or a UM, or whatever costs tons more or not because issues like these tell me this is a mechanical issue and over time it will only get worse.

[svt04cobra]

I am so close to buying this printer BUT at over 6 bills and having these sorts of issues I can't do it. Now if the printer was 100 less I would do it and try to fix whatever is wrong but when we are talking about things that are more than half a grand we shouldn't be having these sorts of issues. I don't care if a Stratasys, or a UM, or whatever costs tons more or not because issues like these tell me this is a mechanical issue and over time it will only get worse.

Its a great printer. I was on the fence to. I personally put some wd40 on the rods and the noise pretty much stopped. I've been printing the shit out of my machine. I've probably got about 8 prints so far and 7 have had no issues.

[Tikz]

Has anyone developed a creaking sound with their Qidi? Mine is creaking bad on the y axis only. Any ideas?

[svt04cobra]

Is everyone removing their build plate every time you print? I've been using the scraper to dig and pry off my model but I'm concerned I might be getting to rough and bend something. It seems like a pain to have to unplug then unscrew then have to level on every build?

[DarkAlchemist]

Gotta be strategic when placing the clips. lol Back left corner and front right toward the middle.

I tried all sorts of ways and when I would hit them is either by hand (mostly) or when I am aligning things and the worst was when I used ABL for the first time or two as I was setting it up. No thanks to clips in any form or fashion for me.

Now, how did it pay for itself as you mentioned?

[Grifftech]

I am on the fence with trying the Avatar iV. I am running 4 FlashForge Creator Pros for my business right now, I run a ton of TPU. And I am needing to add a few more printers and am wondering if the Qidi is worth the savings over the FFCP?

[DarkAlchemist]

I am on the fence with trying the Avatar iV. I am running 4 FlashForge Creator Pros for my business right now, I run a ton of TPU. And I am needing to add a few more printers and am wondering if the Qidi is worth the savings over the FFCP?

I have no idea as I am on the fence about this as well so I hope you get the answers you seek.

[jfkansas]

Lol, I always thought you were a guy.

Best lube I have found is Mystic Lubes Green No2 thinned with a little 3n1 oil. I agree on the Superlube, I think it is too thick. It might work if you can pack the bearings, but still I like the lighter grease, and it isn't as sticky.

I spent a good deal of time after work today to diagnose and finally correct the creaking myself. It's fully resolved in 45 minutes with no creaking/squeaking anymore and the instructions for the fix are as follows:

Items required:
1. 45 minutes of time
2. 1-2mm or smaller tipped syringe, I used a flat syringe tip as to not scratch the bearing (The only reason a small tipped syringe is needed is because we are not dropping/loosening the rear right carriage assembly and it is a very tight squeeze in that corner)
3. Sewing machine oil or similar thin machine bearing oil, I found that Super Lube was too thick to get into the bearing properly and that is why my squeaking persisted even after greasing
4. Some sort of rag, I used paper towels to catch the over-spill and clean after oiling
5. Possibly a flashlight if you are in a low light situation

Steps:
1. Fill syringe and get rags ready, sewing machine oil is thin/runny
2. Remove right acrylic window
3. Remove right sheet metal frame piece (piece that right window bolts onto)
4. Move the extruder to the center/center position to have good access to rear right and front right carriage assemblies
5. Position rag for catching over-spill
6. Put a drop or two of lubricating oil into the inner circle of the bearing - aim carefully, this will ensure when you move the Y-Axis again it will evenly distribute throughout the whole bearing
7. Repeat step 5 + 6 for each bearing as seen in the photos - there are 4 bearings total, two for the front right and two for the back right. With some assistance, I have taken photos and illustrated where to place the drops of oil.

I wrote this up since I was extremely perplexed as to why I couldn't find the proper steps to perform this fix and was loosening carriage assemblies and moving my extruder back and forth quickly which didn't produce any positive results. What I have described above is a repeatable maintenance procedure that I will perform if the creaking comes back and it can be done in 45 minutes or less. The major thing is to make sure not to get oil onto the belts/belt drives/electrical components. This can easily be accomplished by placing a rag under the work area and then bringing the rag up the wall to clean all the way to the bearing while not spreading the oil to belts or other components. I will still use Super Lube for the Axis rods, but Super Lube is way too thick to reach the proper areas of the bearings.

If this write-up should be its own thread, let me know and I'll post it separately. Otherwise, hopefully this helps the users who have been having the same issue I had and now I am printing in peace and quiet!

FYI, the photos were taken after the maintenance and the extruder was in the rear-center position at that time. Center-center is the position the extruder was in when the oiling was performed.

[kaznad]

Hi Guys,

Anyone has any clue why there is so much stringing in my print. I print PLA at 220C with 40C bed temps. Thanks.

IMG_20160415_220038.jpg

Also thanks to cncartist for offering to design the clips for me. Very nice of you.
But I found this site tinkerCAD where it is very easy to modify models. I am currently working on the clips. Very exciting! My first design, well not my design but modification of design

[DarkAlchemist]

Hi Guys,

Anyone has any clue why there is so much stringing in my print. I print PLA at 220C with 40C bed temps. Thanks.

IMG_20160415_220038.jpg

Also thanks to cncartist for offering to design the clips for me. Very nice of you.
But I found this site tinkerCAD where it is very easy to modify models. I am currently working on the clips. Very exciting! My first design, well not my design but modification of design

Retraction would be my bet as in not enough especially with the blobbing I am seeing as well. Increase the distance and increase the speed as well.

edit: Two posts I have used on and off for a while now I think people should bookmark is http://support.3dverkstan.se/article...shooting-guide and https://all3dp.com/common-3d-printin...eir-solutions/

The first link I have used for a couple of years now and the second for a few months and both are darn good at showing you a problem then telling you what needs to be fixed.