Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[svt04cobra]

Instead of clips. I just got this. Its was suggested from another member here and works great!!!!! 100mmx100mmx0.5mm GPU CPU Heatsink Cooling Thermal Conductive Silicone Pad Tool What I did is cut the pad in 4 equal squares and lay them on the build plate. The glass sticks to it. Then when your done printing just lift the glass off. It seems to want to stick to the glass but hasn't been an issue. Love how easy it is when the print is done to remove the object!

Does anyone have a link to some glass holders (not clips) designed for 1/8 inch glass, or 1/4 inch that includes the CAD files so I can possibly modify them, depending on the program. I seem to remember someone mentioning them somewhere, but with 123 pages now, it will be impossible to find. Not sure why there is still no subforum for QIDI Tech.

[jfkansas]

Without some pictures it is hard but it sounds like Ringing (ghosting) and it simply means you are printing too fast. Because there are two heavy motors on X it means we have to print slower than a single extruder. How ringing happens is when a sudden change is needed and the nozzle actually vibrates (oscillates) for a bit and we see that as ringing. You can play with acceleration or even turn it all the way off (on a Ramps based system playing with X/Y Jerk is another parameter to play with) but at the end of the day slowing down the printing is what works best.

Acceleration should never be turned off. Tuned yes, off no. Acceleration doesn't cause ringing, it attempts to reduce it. Best bet is to remove the left stepper at least when not in use. It is more work to remove the left extruder and wiring but is good to do also. When doing this it is a good time to separate the left extruder wiring into its own conduit.

[DarkAlchemist]

Acceleration should never be turned off. Tuned yes, off no. Acceleration doesn't cause ringing, it attempts to reduce it. Best bet is to remove the left stepper at least when not in use. It is more work to remove the left extruder and wiring but is good to do also. When doing this it is a good time to separate the left extruder wiring into its own conduit.

On a Ramps based system (uses Marlin) we can't really turn it off but I was reading all over the Internet and I read so many places that said to turn it off so you know precisely what the motor is going to do and could control the ringing. I know absolutely zilch about Sailfish so when I read about acceleration being able to be turned on and off that was a new one for me. Once I read to turn it off and it might help that sunk in (I never was able to get rid of ringing 100% on a Marlin based Ramps I3 setup but we can't just turn off acceleration. I do believe 0 would be the same thing). On Marlin I had to reduce my acceleration so much to help ALMOST eliminate the ringing you might as well have said it was off.

All of the above is with one Wades style extruder with a 74 oz-in Nema 17 on it. So, if I had ringing with one motor I can only imagine with two hefty motors there.

Does Sailfish have a Jerk setting? Jerk mattered a whole lot in Marlin for reducing ringing and for making sharp corners or more rounded ones.

[DarkAlchemist]

Instead of clips. I just got this. Its was suggested from another member here and works great!!!!! 100mmx100mmx0.5mm GPU CPU Heatsink Cooling Thermal Conductive Silicone Pad Tool What I did is cut the pad in 4 equal squares and lay them on the build plate. The glass sticks to it. Then when your done printing just lift the glass off. It seems to want to stick to the glass but hasn't been an issue. Love how easy it is when the print is done to remove the object!

I believe that was me as I used them and would never ever go back to clips.

[electrichammer]

Ordered myself one of these bad boys after so many of you recommending it, plus after sales support appears to be excellent! Should hopefully have it by the end of next week.

What at programs do you all recommend for a beginner? Don't think I'm ready to shell out $150 for S3D.

[kaznad]

Hi guys,

I have been having issues with accuracy on my prints. I printed a cube with 20x20x20mm it came out 18.76x18.93x20.21mm. The Z axis tolerance seems ok. But the X and Y seems to be way off. Is there any way to calibrate the machine? Thanks.

[DarkAlchemist]

Hi guys,

I have been having issues with accuracy on my prints. I printed a cube with 20x20x20mm it came out 18.76x18.93x20.21mm. The Z axis tolerance seems ok. But the X and Y seems to be way off. Is there any way to calibrate the machine? Thanks.

Be aware that accuracy will never be 100% because of the usage of 17 tooth pulleys and for Z careful with your layer height because they used an eight degree pitch leadscrew. Change over to 16T pulleys and a two degree leadscrew for Z is a good investment for dimensional accuracy.

Prusa RepRap calculator
Optimal layer height for your Z axis

Helps you to select layer height in a way, that Z axis moves only by full step increments. Z axis isn't usually enabled during inactivity. If the axis is disabled during micro-step, axis jumps to the closest full step and intorduce error. This effect is occuring to some extent even while leaving the Z axis motors enabled. This is most usefull to machines with imperial leadscrews but also for unusual layer heights with metric leadscrews.

Layer height	Error over 10cm	Number of steps	Step length
0.08000	0mm	2	0.04mm
0.1	-20mm	2.5	0.04mm
0.1200	0mm	3	0.04mm

That is just for Z using an eight degree pitch leadscrew and X and Y has the same sort of nonsense:

17T GT2 Pulley (x/y uses)

Result	Resolution	Teeth	Step angle	Stepping	Belt
94.12 Click to Share!	10.624999999999998micron	17	1.8°	1/16th	2mm

Now, change that to a 16T (what I used on my I3) and the Resolution is a solid 10 microns so evenly divisible.

edit: Let me add that you can also play with the steps per mm in Sailfish (easy to do in S3D I dunno the others) as those numbers have been wrong from day one from Makerbot (they used the dimensional pitch vs the standard, and more correct, pulley tooth count which is what the 94.12 is based on). I would play with the steps per mm if I were you and see what changes. For me with a 16T pulley my steps per mm was dead on 100 but that is based on the real formula.

[Colorado CJ]

Thanks for the tips guys. Unfortunately I am using the Makerbot software and I don't see anywhere where I can change the acceleration or jerk settings. I've even looked into editing the code and there is nothing in there as well.

Is there a way to actually edit the firware so the acceleration and jerk settings don't go over s certain point?

As far as the last post, Makerbot doesn't allow you to chang the steps per mm either, atleast nowhere I can see.

[DarkAlchemist]

Thanks for the tips guys. Unfortunately I am using the Makerbot software and I don't see anywhere where I can change the acceleration or jerk settings. I've even looked into editing the code and there is nothing in there as well.

Is there a way to actually edit the firware so the acceleration and jerk settings don't go over s certain point?

As far as the last post, Makerbot doesn't allow you to chang the steps per mm either, atleast nowhere I can see.

Well, in replicator G you can change a lot of these things but not sure with Makerbot stuff.

After I get this machine, and make sure everything is fine (no bent rods, or other nasty UPS made to happen things), if I feel too confined by Sailfish I will move over to Smoothieware which is Gcode based and has far too many parameters to explain here but having been a PC tech for eons I prefer to have a lot of control in my firmware and software (why I hated Cura as they never had as many parameters as Slic3r did).

We will see but, as I said, Replicator G will talk to your printer and steps per mm is there but all I saw on this video was either on or off for acceleration which is no good as I need to be able to manipulate the numbers. Parts wear and things are in a constant state of flux so in 6 months maybe the numbers need to be changed and using a Marlin based system, or Smoothieware, I have everything easily at my fingertips to manipulate.

[jfkansas]

Hi guys,

I have been having issues with accuracy on my prints. I printed a cube with 20x20x20mm it came out 18.76x18.93x20.21mm. The Z axis tolerance seems ok. But the X and Y seems to be way off. Is there any way to calibrate the machine? Thanks.

What software are you slicing with and what profile. You should be using Replicator 1 Dual, not Replicator 2.