This corresponds to Createc's video for the steel X axis:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pi_K...nPV_K&index=12

(don't use the video for the plastic X axis, which is video #3).

Aside from being a steel i3 (which is rare but very stable), and aside from being the only one I could find where the LCD was built into the frame, the X axis is also steel. It's the only steel i3 X axis I've seen. It is harder to assemble, and it does help if you are good with metal. But if there is any truth that key alignment parts printed in low-melting point plastic is not a stable solution, then a steel X axis should be good for many years and many mods.

For me the X was the hardest steel part to assemble, mostly because the force you need to get the smooth rods through the friction-fit holes tends to push the friction-fit metal away (because it is not supported laterally). Meaning, the structure is meant to hold well and perform well, but not necessarily be easy to build. The force I had to use to get the rods through the holes would surely have destroyed any plastic X structure, including nylon and PC. But it's permanent, and is never going to crack, doesn't care about humidity, and has half the thermal expansion of aluminum. No powder coating has come off, either.

The trick I found after building it (which I'll use for the second printer) and getting the smooth rods through the holes is to not build the X assembly first and then push the rods through (like their video does). Instead, get the metal plates (with the friction-fit holes) over the rods first, and then build the X assembly. Pushing a flat metal plate (with the friction-fit hole) over the rod is relatively easy, because you can push ("hammer") the plate with a circular tool such as a large socket wrench. This applies the pressure to the plate in an even fashion, around the rod, so the plate goes down evenly. Once the plates are on the rods, the rest is easy screw-tighening.

Also, the brass nuts for the Z threaded rods is a friction-fit ("hammer into place"), so it's probably best to also put those into place before putting the assembly together. And get these nuts very very straight, because any mis-alignment causes binding. Be prepared to adjust them later so that the top of the threaded rod spins without any wobble at all.

Unfortunately, I don't have pics of assembling the X the proper way, since I did it the "hard" way and built the assembly first and then tried to get the rods through. But I'll try to point out the correct way in the pics:

X1.jpg

X2.jpg

X3.jpg

X4.jpg

X5.jpg